User manual GAS GAS FSE 450 - 2006

MANUAL DEL USUARIO USER MANUAL MANUEL D'ENTRETIEN LIBRETTO D´USO BETRIEBSANLEITUNG USER MANUAL USER MANUAL ENGLISH Foreword GAS GAS thanks you for your confidence. By choosing the new GAS GAS FSE / FSE SM 2006 you have just entered the great GAS GAS family and, as a user of the number one off-road motorbike manufacturer, you deserve the distinguished treatment that we wish to offer to you both in our after-sale relationship and in the explanations that we provide in this manual. Our FSE / FSE SM 2006 is a bike conceived for highly competitive performance. In fact this bike is the fruit of many years of competition and experimentation in these demanding disciplines; many great trial riders have contributed their expertise and achievements to the essential data we have used to create these high-quality, exclusive motorcycles incorporating key features such as reliability, high performance and stability. Congratulations for making, without a doubt, the right choice. With skill at the controls of this motorbike, an adequate preparation and the corresponding essential servicing this GAS GAS will remain highly reliable and you will be able to enjoy the most comfortable and rewarding motor sport. Thank you for your confidence and welcome to GAS GAS motos SA. -3- IMPORTANT NOTICE Read this manual carefully. This manual covers aspects that will contribute to your security and to that of others, as well as guaranteeing a correct conservation and maintenance of this GAS GAS motorcycle you have just acquired. All of the instructions to correctly handle and drive this motorcycle are described in detail. Each message will be preceded by a symbol. Inadequate driving skill could cause problems to the environment and conflict with other people. Responsible use of your motorcycle will ensure that these problems and conflicts do not occur. TO PROTECT THE FUTURE OF YOUR SPORT, MAKE SURE YOU USE YOUR BIKE LEGALLY, WITH CONCERN FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, AND RESPECT THE RIGHTS OF OTHER PEOPLE. Motorcycle riding is a fantastic sport, and we hope you will enjoy it to the fullest. WARNING This warning symbol identifies special instructions or procedures that, if not correctly followed, could result in personal injury, or even death. CAUTION This caution symbol identifies special instructions or procedures that, if not strictly observed, could result in damage to or destruction of equipment. OIL RECOMMENDED: NOTE This symbol indicates points of particular interest for more efficient and convenient operation. -4- TABLE OF CONTENTS Foreword.........................................................................................3 Important notice ..............................................................................4 Table of contents ............................................................................5 General information ........................................................................6 Component locations ......................................................................8 Side stand.....................................................................................10 Petrol ............................................................................................10 Serial number and the qualification approval plate.......................11 Starting and stopping the engine ..................................................12 Cold starting..................................................................................13 Gear changes ...............................................................................13 Stopping the motorcycle ...............................................................14 Break-in ........................................................................................14 Maintenance chart ........................................................................15 Battery ..........................................................................................16 Cooling system .............................................................................17 Spark plug.....................................................................................20 Air filter..........................................................................................23 Accelerator cable ..........................................................................24 Clutch............................................................................................25 Exhaust system ............................................................................25 Chain guide...................................................................................26 Tension adjustment ......................................................................27 Handle bars ..................................................................................29 Brakes...........................................................................................29 Steering ........................................................................................31 Steering lock .................................................................................32 Front forks.....................................................................................33 Rear suspension...........................................................................36 Wheels..........................................................................................38 Cleaning........................................................................................39 Tighten bolts and nuts ..................................................................40 Tightening torque table .................................................................41 Lubrication ....................................................................................42 Engine oil ......................................................................................43 Suspension adjustment ................................................................46 In competition ...............................................................................50 Storage .........................................................................................51 Multi-function instructions ............................................................52 Fault diagnosis..............................................................................58 Guarantee manual ........................................................................64 -5- GENERAL INFORMATION ENGINE Engine Displacement in cubic centimetres Bore and stroke Spark plug Fuel supply TRANSMISSION Transmission type Clutch type Secondary transmission Gear ratio 4 stroke, single-cylinder DOHC 4 valves, liquid cooled 449 cc 97 x 60.76 mm NGK CR8E or DENSO U24ESR-N Magneti Marelli electronic injection Primary reduction ratio Final reduction ratio Overall drive ratio Transmission oil Capacity Type 6 speed Oil bath, multi-disk hydraulic action By chain 1st 2.071(29/14) 2nd 1.625(26/16) 3rd 1.333(24/18) 4th 1.100(22/20) 5th 0.913(21/23) 6th 0.791(19/24) 2.85(57/20) 3.692 (48/13) 8.149(6th gear) 1200 cc 5W40 API SF or SG CHASSIS Type Tyre sizes Front Rear DELTABOX, semi double cradle chassis made from rectangular Cromoly tubes. Aluminium rocker FSE - 90/90 x 21 FSE SM - 120/60 ZR17 FSE - 140/80 x 18 FSE SM - 150/60 ZR17 -6- Suspension Suspension stroke Front suspension oil Front fork oil level Front Rear Front Rear Öhlins ø 48mm inverted fork Marzocchi ø 45mm inverted fork Progressive system with single multi-adjustment ÖHLINS shock absorber 295 mm 320 mm MARZOCCHI SAE 7.5 ÖHLINS SAE 5 - 7.5 Marzocchi: 100 mm (compressed, without spring) ÖHLINS: 110 mm (compressed, without spring) BRAKES Type Effective disk diameter Front / rear Front Rear Disk brakes, NISSIN pump and simple / double callipers 260 mm 220 mm DIMENSIONS Overall height Overall length Overall width Wheel base Minimum ground clearance Fuel tank capacity Weight 1260 mm 2135 mm 810 mm 1475 mm 340 mm 9.5 litres 119 Kg (Specifications subject to change without notification, also possibly not applicable in some countries). -7- LOCATION OF COMPONENTS GAS GAS FSE 450 1 3 4 2 56 123456- Clutch handle Engine start button Fuel tank cap Front brake fluid tank Front brake handle Throttle control 1 GAS GAS FSE SM 450 3 42 56 123456- Clutch handle Engine start button Fuel tank cap Front brake fluid tank Front brake handle Throttle control -8- 12 7 9 16 11 18 19 14 13 8 23 15 10 17 21 20 22 24 7- Front suspension 8- Radiator 9- Fuel tank 10- Air filter 11- Seat 12- Front brake disk 13- Front brake callipers 14- Rear brake fluid tank 15- Shift pedal -9- 16- Rear shock absorber 17- Chain guide 18- Chain 19- Silencer 20- Rear shock absorber gas tank 21- Tie rod and rocker suspension 22- Rear brake pedal 23- Engine oil cap 24- Exhaust bend SIDE STAND To unfold the side stand (A) the securing strap must be released (B) then the stand is opened to vertical position. The stand returns to its original position with the aid of the spring (B). PETROL The GAS GAS FSE / SM FSE 450 has a four stroke engine and requires 98 octane, unleaded petrol. Fuel Tank Capacity 7.2L (A) (B) (B) (A) (A). Side stand. (B). Spring. NOTE Do not start the engine or ride the motorcycle when the side stand is down. Always engage the security strap before driving the motorcycle. (A). Fuel cap. (B). Fuel vent hose. To open the fuel cap (A), release the fuel vent hose (B) from the handle bar and rotate the fuel cap in an anti-clockwise direction. To close the fuel cap, rotate it in a clockwise direction. -10- RECOMMENDED FUEL Use lead-free petrol with an octane rating equal to or higher than that shown in the table. OCTANE RATING METHOD Antiknock Index Research Octane No. (RON+MON)/2 (RON) OCTANE RATING (MIN) 90 98 SERIAL NUMBER Printed on the steering tube. Indicates the frame number with which the motorcycle is registered. Qualification approval plate The motorcycle is fitted with its own corresponding qualification approval plate with the serial number, also printed on the steering tube and whose data also coincides with that in the documents. NOTE If knocking occurs, try a different brand of gasoline or higher octane grade. WARNING Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. -11- STARTING THE ENGINE - Ensure that the motorcycle is in neutral. - Rotate the starter key clockwise (ON (A) position), in this way the electric circuits are active and the engine can start. Stopping the engine - Change gear to neutral. - After a slight acceleration, release the throttle completely and rotate the ignition key anti-clockwise. (A) (D) - The key should point left (D), this means that all of the electric circuits are inactive. The engine cannot start. - The key may be extracted from the ignition. NOTE Starting the engine while the key is being turned to the ON position may cause a loss in battery power. (B) - Without using the throttle, press the electric start button (B). -12- COLD STARTING The cold start function is responsible for aiding the engine start if this is cold. (The injection system has a feature which allows high idling when the engine is cold.) - There is no need to use the throttle, simply start the engine. Note that the engine will start after a certain number of revolutions. After some minutes, the engine will be at normal operation temperature. The engine will reach its optimal temperature, in low time and without causing damage. SHIFTING GEARS The transmission is a 6 speed, return shift type meaning that to go back to first gear from a higher gear, you must shift back through the gears one by one. To engage first gear from neutral, pull in the clutch lever and push down on the shift pedal then release the pressure on the shift pedal and gently release the clutch lever. CAUTION NOTE - If the engine is flooded then start with the throttle fully open. - The motorcycle may be started in gear if the clutch is disengaged. When changing gears, press firmly on the shift pedal to ensure complete, positive shifting. Careless, incomplete shifts can cause the transmission to jump out of gear and lead to engine damage. (B). Shift pedal. (B) -13- STOPPING THE MOTORCYCLE For maximum deceleration, close the throttle (A) and apply both front and rear brakes. Disengage the clutch as the motorcycle comes to a stop. Independent use of the front or rear brake may be advantageous under certain conditions. Downshift progressively as speed is reduced to ensure good engine response when you want to accelerate. NOTE The slow speed necessary during the break-in period may cause carbon to build up on the spark plug and soil it. If inspection of the spark plug shows this to be the case, replace the standard spark plug with a higher heat grade spark plug for the duration of the break-in period. Break-in following these steps: 1. Start the engine and let it run at idle until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. 2. Stop and let the engine cool completely 3. Start the engine and ride for 10 minutes at moderate speed. NEVER ACCELERATE FULLY. 4. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust chain slack and spoke tightness and make a general inspection. 5. Start the engine and ride for 20 minutes at moderate engine speed. NEVER ACCELERATE FULLY. 6. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust (4). 7. Fit the inspected parts. 8. Fill the radiator up completely with cooling liquid. Before starting the engine bleed the air from the cooling system. 9. Start the engine and ride for 30 minutes at moderate speed. 10. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust (4). 11. After the break-in procedure has been properly carried out, the motorcycle is ready for regular operation. CAUTION In any case, even an imprudent acceleration can cause engine trouble, take special care and use the proper skills and techniques required for correct driving of the motorcycle. NOTE Following the break-in, fit a new standard spark plug. (A) BREAK-IN To obtain the proper operating clearances in the engine and transmission that are necessary for smooth engine performance and reliability, an initial break-in must be completed. For the first hour or 100 Km of operation, run the engine at low rpm. -14- MAINTENANCE CHART Article Air filter *Exhaust connectors and bolts *Valve tolerances Spark plug Injection pump pipes Engine oil and filter oil *Engine oil pipes Coolant Radiator hoses Clutch Chain *Brakes Brake lines Brake liquid Tyres *Steering assembly *Front forks *Rear suspension *Chassis bolts and nuts Period Period Period First 5 hours Every 30 hours Every 60 hours Inspect each time that the motorcycle has run or when necessary T T I I R I I *Revise every 4 years R R R I I I I I Revise every 2 years I I I I I I Clean, lubricate and inspect each time the motorcycle has run I I I I I I *Revise every 4 years I I I *Revise every 2 years Inspect tyres for damage and check the tyre pressure every time the motorcycle has run I I I I I I T T T T I I NOTE: I = Inspect and clean, adjust, replace or lubricate if necessary; R = Replace, T = Tighten, C = Clean -15- BATTERY This battery is maintenance free and checking the fluid level is not required. It is advisable to check the charge of the battery periodically To remove the battery, follow these steps: 3. Disconnect the terminals ensuring that they do not enter into contact with metal parts then extract the battery. WARNING Hydrogen gas produced by the battery may explode if exposed to open flame or sparks. Keep the area ventilated and free from naked flames. (A) The operating instructions for the battery are as follows: 1. Check the battery tension in open circuit status (disconnected). In case the battery's tension is below 12.60 V, or if the storage period has exceeded 6 months, the battery has to be recharged following the instructions in paragraph 3. If the battery voltage is above 12.60 V, the battery can be installed on the vehicle without having to recharge it. 3.1. Constant voltage charge mode. - Constant voltage = 14.40 - 14.70V - Initial charge current = 0.1 ­ 0.5 Cn - Charge duration = 6 hours minimum / 24 hours maximum. 3.2. Constant power charge mode. - Maximum charge current = 0.1 Cn 1. Remove the screws (A) and remove the seat (B). 2. Release the rubber (C). -16- (B) (C) 2. - Recommended charging duration = 5 - 8 hours. - The product (charge current) X (charge duration) must be within the range: 0.5 - 0.8 Cn. Note In case that a different mode of charging is used to those established here, never exceed the maximum allowed currents nor the maximum charge duration of 24 hours. CAUTION Using a high pressure water source could damage the radiator fins and render it ineffective. Do not obstruct or deviate the radiator air intake by installing nonapproved accessories. Interfering with the radiator could cause overheating and result in engine damage. Coolant This absorbs excessive heat from the engine and transfers it to the air at the radiator. If the coolant level becomes low, the engine overheats and may suffer severe damage. Check the coolant level each day before riding the motorcycle. Replenish coolant if the level is low. WARNING To avoid burns, do not remove the radiator cap or try to change the coolant when the engine is still hot. Wait for it to cool down. CAUTION Not using the standard manner of charging may seriously shorten the battery life. Never exceed the standard charge. CAUTION Inverting the polarity of the battery terminals may cause battery charge problems and cause damage to the battery system. The red terminal is positive (+) and the black terminal is negative (-). THE COOLING SYSTEM Radiator hose Check the radiator hoses for cracks or deterioration, and connections for leaks. Radiator Check the radiator fins for obstruction by insects or mud. Clean off any obstructions with a stream of low-pressure water. -17- Anti-freeze liquid information To protect the cooling system aluminium parts (engine and radiator) from rust and corrosion, the use of corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals in the coolant is essential. If coolant containing corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals is not used, over a period of time, the radiator will rust. This will block the cooling hoses. Coolant Level CAUTION Use of incorrect coolant solutions will cause severe engine and cooling system damage. Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for aluminium engines and radiators in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturer. - Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground. - Remove the radiator cap in two stages. First turn the cap anti-clock wise and wait for a few seconds. Then push and turn it further in the same direction to remove the cap. WARNING Coolant chemicals are harmful to the human body. Follow coolant manufacturer warnings and coolant handing instructions. (A) CAUTION Soft or distilled water must be used with the inhibitor chemicals and the antifreeze in the cooling system. If normal water is used in the system, it the cooling system tubes may become blocked. If the lowest ambient temperature encountered falls below the freezing point of water, protect the cooling system against freezing. Use a permanent type of anti-freeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminium engines and radiators) in the cooling system. CAUTION For the coolant mixture ratio under extreme conditions, choose the mixture ratio listed on the container for the lowest ambient temperature. (A). Radiator Cap. Permanent types of antifreeze on the market have anticorrosion and anti-rust properties. When diluted excessively these lose their antifreeze and anticorrosion properties. These must be diluted in accordance with the instructions of manufacturer. -18- NOTE Check the level when the engine is cold. Changing the coolant - The coolant should be changed periodically to ensure long engine life. - Wait for the engine to cool completely. - Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground. - Remove the radiator cap. - Place a container under the coolant drain plug, and drain the coolant from the radiator and engine by removing the drain plug at the bottom of the water pump cover. Immediately wipe or wash off any coolant that spills on the frame, engine, or wheels. (1). Coolant level. (2). Filler opening. If the coolant level is low, add the correct amount of coolant through the filler opening. Recommended liquid Permanent type of antifreeze (distilled water and ethylene glycol) with corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminium engines and radiators). NOTE Initially a permanent type of antifreeze is installed in the cooling system by the manufacturer. This is green in colour, containing 50 % ethylene glycol with a freezing point of ­35°C. Total quantity Mix antifreeze and distilled water 1:1 (distilled water 50%, antifreeze 50%). -19- (A) (B) (A). Water pump cover. (B). Coolant drain Plug. WARNING If coolant gets on the tyres this will make them slippery and could result in an accident. -Inspection of the coolant. If white cotton-like patches appear in the liquid then this means that the aluminium elements of the cooling system are corroded. If the liquid is brown then this means that the steal or iron parts of the system are oxidized. In either case clean out the system. - Check the cooling system for damage, loose joints, or leaks. - Install the water pump cover drain plug and cylinder drain plug with the specified torque shown in the table. Always replace seals with new ones. Bolt torques: Water pump plug: 9 Nm. - Fill the radiator up to the edge and install the radiator cap. - Check the cooling system for leaks. - Start the engine, warm up the engine, and then stop it. - Check the coolant level after the engine cools down. Add coolant up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck. SPARK PLUG The standard spark plug is shown in the table and is tightened to 11 Nm. Standard spark plug NGK CR8 E or DENSO U24ESR-N 0.7-0.8 mm. between electrodes using a gauge and adjust in case that it is not correct by bending the outer electrode. If the spark plug electrodes are oxidised, damaged or the insulation is broken then replace the plug. NOTE Inspect every 30 hours. Replace every 60 hours. To find the correct heat grade spark plug is being used, take it out and examine the insulation around the electrode. If the ceramic is light brown, the spark plug is correctly matched to engine temperature. If the ceramic is white, the plug should be replaced with the next coldest plug. If the ceramic is black, the plug should be replaced with the next hottest plug. NOTE If the engine output decreases, replace the spark plug to regain performance. Spark plug maintenance NGK CR7E CR8E CR9E DENSO U22ESR-N U24ESR-N U27ESR-N COMMENTS If the standard spark plug is wet then replace it. Standard If the standard spark plug looks glassy or has a white colour, replace it( The spark plug should be taken out periodically to check the electrode gap. If the plug is oily or has carbon build up on it the clean it with a sand blaster. Following abrasive particle cleaning, the spark plug should be cleaned with a wire brush or similar. Measure the distance -20- CUIDADO Un incorrecto montaje de la bujía o grado térmico incorrecto puede provocar grandes daños en el motor, y estos daños no son cubiertos por la garantía. Usar siempre las bujías recomendadas por la marca. Consultar a los concesionarios o a un mecánico cualificado para saber qué bujía es la mejor para su motocicleta. Extracción de la bujía Para extraer la bujía, seguir los siguientes pasos: 3. Remove the bolts (C) (left and right). (C) (C) (A) 4. Remove the rubber attachment on the tank (D). 1. Remove the bolts (A) (left and right). (D) (B) (E) 2. Remove the seat (B). -21- 5. Remove the tank securing bolt (E). 6. Separate the connectors from the electronics (F). (F) 8. Remove the spark plug hood. 7. Separate the connector (G) from the fuel pump and secure to one side of the tank. NOTE A cap protects the spark plug. Keep this clean and dry. (G) WARNING When the injection pump pipes are removed, petrol may be spilled and cause a fire. Stop the engine before removing the tank. Keep naked flames and sparks away from the tank cap. Do not smoke. -22- 9. Take out the spark plug and clean carbon deposits from the spark plug with a small tip or a metallic brush. Readjust the gap in the plug between 0.7 and 0.8 mm. (0.028 ­ 0.031 in). Before removing the carbon deposits, check its colour; this colour tells us whether the standard plug is the best for our use. AIR FILTER An obstructed air filter restricts the air intake of the engine, increasing the petrol consumption and reducing the engine power as well as the destruction of the spark plug. WARNING An obstructed air filter may allow dirt to enter into the injector blocking it open; this could lead to an accident. (B) (A) (C) CAUTION An obstructed air filter will allow dirt to enter the engine causing excess wear and engine damage. Inspect this without fault, before and after each race or session. Clean if necessary. -Remove the cap (A). -Remove the screw (B) and take the filter out (C). Stuff a clean, lint-free towel into the intake manifold so that no dirt is allowed to enter. CAUTION Do not spin the filter on its cage. It is possible to tear or damage the filter. - Clean inside the filter housing using a damp cloth. Cleaning the air filter WARNING Clean the filter in a well-ventilated zone and ensure that there are no sources of naked flame or sparks near the work area (including the focus of a powerful light). Do not use petrol to clean the filter as this could result in an explosion. Remove the cage (B) from the air filter (A). -23- - Clean the filter in a filter bath using a soft brush. THROTTLE CABLE - Check that the throttle grip turns smoothly - Check that the throttle grip has 2-3 mm of play. - If the play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the upper end of the throttle cable, and turn the adjuster to obtain the correct amount of play. - Tighten the locknut. (C) - Squeeze it and take it out with a clean cloth. (B) (A) (D) - Check the air filter for damage such as scraping, hardening, shrinkage If it is damaged then replace otherwise dirt will enter the throttle body. - Grease all of the connections and bolts of the air filter and inlets. ­ Install the filter in the cage and cover the filter lip (A) with a thick layer of grease to ensure a seal and to avoid dust penetration. - Fit the air filter to the motorcycle and ensure that it is correctly connected. -24- (A). Adjustment. (B). Lock nut. (C). Throttle grip. (D). Brake fluid reservoir. - If the play can not be established by adjusting the cable, remove the cable protection from the throttle, adjust this using a tensioning device at the end of the cable, tighten the lock nut and refit the protection. CLUTCH Proper clutch lever play is 2-3 mm. Play increases with the clutch wear and thus requires adjustment. When there is too much play, first try to adjust the level of the clutch lever. Tighten the adjustment bolt to obtain the optimal play. THE EXHAUST SYSTEM The exhaust and the silencer reduce noise and carry the gasses away from the driver. If the exhaust is damaged, rusted, dented or split then change it. Change the silencer packing if the noise begins to be too loud or if the engine performance drops. Changing the silencer 1. Remove the right side number carrier cover. 2. Release the exhaust flange. (C) (A) (B) (C) (B) (A) (A). Clutch Lever. (B). Clutch cylinder piston rod. (C). Hydraulic fluid tank. If the adjustment of the clutch lever has reached its limit, then play must be adjusted by the clutch cylinder piston rod. (A). Silencer. (B). Silencer attachment bolts. (C). Flange. -25- Changing the silencer packing - Remove the cover rivets (A). - Extract the silencer cover (B). - Pull out the inner silencer. - Change the silencer packing by wrapping around the inner tube. - Refit the assembly. WARNING A chain that breaks or jumps off the sprockets could snag on the engine sprocket or lock the rear wheel, severely damaging the motorcycle and causing it to go out of control. Checking tension The space between the chain and the swing arm at the rear of the chain slider should be 30-50 mm. Rotate the rear wheel to find the place where the chain is tightest. Adjust the drive chain if it has too much or too little slack. NOTE In muddy or humid conditions, the mud gets inside the chain increasing tension and may cause the chain to break. To prevent this, adjust the chain to 30-50 mm of space between the chain and rocker arm whenever necessary. (A) (B) (A). Rivets. (B). Cover. CHAIN GUIDE The drive chain must be checked, adjusted, and lubricated in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance table in order to prevent excessive wear. If the chain is worn or badly adjusted (to tight or loose) then it may jump off the sprockets or break. -26- (A) (A). 30 - 50 mm. In addition to checking the slack, rotate the rear wheel to inspect the drive chain and sprockets for damaged rollers, loose pins and links, unevenly or excessively worn and damaged teeth. Tension adjustment -Loosen the rear axle nut. - Turn the nuts on the chain adjusting bolts evenly until there is 3050 mm of space between the chain and the swing arm. To keep the chain and wheel aligned, the adjustment on the left of the chain should be equal to that on the right. NOTE Wheel alignment can also be checked using the straightedge or string method. WARNING Misalignment of the wheel will result in abnormal wear and may result in an unsafe riding condition. - Tighten the chain adjustment nuts. - Tighten the axle nut to 98 N-m. - Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again at the tightest position, and readjust if necessary. WARNING (C) If the axle nut is not securely tightened unsafe riding conditions may result. (B) Drive chain, chain guide, chain slide, and rear sprocket (A) When the chain has worn so much that it is more than 2% longer than when new, it is no longer safe for use and should be replaced. Whenever the chain is replaced, inspect both the engine pinion and rear sprocket, and replace them if necessary. Worn teeth will cause the chain to wear more quickly. (A). Rear axle. (B). Adjustment nut. (C). Chain adjustment. -27- NOTE For maximum resistance and safety, a genuine part must be used for replacement. To minimize any chance of the master link coming apart, the master link clip must be installed with the closed end of the «U» points in the direction of chain rotation. Chain guide slide Visually inspect the upper and lower part of the chain slider on the swing arm. If this is worn then replace it. (A). Clip. (B). Chain direction of rotation. Chain Wear Guide Visually inspect the drive chain wear guide (A); If the guide is worn excessively or damaged, replace it. (A) (B) (A). Chain guide slide. (B). Rocker arm. Pinion and sprocket teeth wear Visually inspect the pinion and sprocket teeth. If they are worn or damaged, replace the pinion or sprocket. Lubrication (A) Lubrication is necessary after riding through rain or in the mud, or any time that the chain appears dry. A heavy oil is preferred to a lighter oil because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better lubrication. -28- Apply oil to the side of the links so that it will penetrate better. Wipe off any excess oil. Tighten the bolts securely; first the forward bolts then the rear, to a torque of 25 Nm. If the handlebar is correctly installed, there will be a minimal gap at the front and rear of the clamp after tightening (A). (A) (A) (A). Apply oil. HANDLEBARS To suit various riding positions, the handlebar position can be adjusted front to rear. (A) Handlebar position adjustment BRAKES (A) Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compensated for and has no effect on the brake lever or pedal action. So there are no parts that require adjustment on the brakes except brake lever play and the brake pedal position and play. (B) Loosen the handlebar holder bolts (B), of the handlebar holder (A) then rotate bars to desired position. -29- Front brake lever Adjust brake lever to a comfortable position. To adjust, loosen the nut under the rubber protection (B). Tighten after adjustment. Ensure that the brake responds correctly. (A) (B) (A). Brake pedal. (B). 10 mm of play. (A) (B) (A). Brake lever. (B). Rubber protection. WARNING If the brake lever or pedal feels mushy when it is applied, there might be air in the brake lines or the brake may be defective. Since it is dangerous to operate the motorcycle under such conditions, check the brakes immediately. Rear brake pedal When the brake pedal is in rest position, there should be a play of 10 mm. If not, then adjust this. Ensure that the brake responds correctly and does not rub. To adjust the pedal play, loosen the locknut, rotate the bolt and retighten the locknut. Brake fluid Regularly check the brake fluid and periodically change it. It should also be changed if it is contaminated by water or dirt. -30- Recommended liquid Use D.O.T 3 or D.O.T 4 Fluid level inspection The front (A) and rear (B) reservoirs must be kept more than half full with brake fluid. If the amount of brake fluid is insufficient, add brake fluid. CAUTION Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted surface. Do not use fluid from a container that has been left open or that has been unsealed for a long time. Check for fluid leakage around the fittings. Check for brake line damage. WARNING Do not mix brands of fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid must be refilled with a type other than the brake fluid already in the reservoirs. (A) Brake Wear Inspection If the thickness of either pad is less than 1 mm, replace both pads in the calliper as a set. Pad replacement should be done by an authorized GAS GAS dealer. STEERING The steering should always be kept adjusted so that the handlebar will turn freely but without excessive play. (B) -31- To check the steering adjustment, lift the bike off the ground using a stand underneath the chassis. Push the handlebar lightly to either side; if it continues moving under its own momentum, the steering is not too tight. Squatting in front of the motorcycle, grasp the lower ends of the front fork at the axle, and push and pull the bottom end of the front fork back and forth; if play is felt, the steering is too loose. If the steering needs adjustment - Using the stand under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle. - Place a stand or block under the engine to raise the front wheel off the ground. - Remove the handlebar by loosening the handlebar clamp bolts (A). - Install the upper suspension plate (D). - Tighten the steering stem nut (B), the washers and bolts on the front forks to the correct torque. Steering head nut: 44 Nm (4.5 Kgm) Suspension plate bolts: 22 Nm (2.25 Kgm) - Recheck the steering and readjust if necessary. - Refit all removed parts. STEERING LOCK This mechanism allows us to lock the steering. It is located on the steering tube. The handlebars must be turned to the right completely, then insert the key, rotate left, press, rotate right and take the key out. (A) (D) (B) (A) (C) - Loosen the steering stem bolt (B). - Loosen the bolts for the upper suspension plate and remove it (C). - Rotate the steering adjustment bolt using the special spanner in order to obtain the appropriate adjustment. -32- (A). Steering lock. CAUTION Never leave the key in the lock. If the steering is turned to the left with the key in the lock then this will be severely damaged. FRONT FORKS The front fork should always be adjusted for the rider's weight and track conditions. The adjustments are done in 5 stages: - Air pressure: affects the entire range of fork stroke. The air pressure increases when the forks heat up, or, as operation time increases. We don't recommend using air pressure as the forks are designed to work without adding any air. - Rebound and compression dampening adjustment: This adjustment affects the speed of the rebound. The fork rebound dampening adjustment has 18 positions. The tightened position is completely hard. The position 12 from the closed position is the standard and the position 18 is totally soft. - Oil level adjustment: The effects of higher or lower fork oil level are only felt during the final 100 mm of fork stroke. A higher oil level will make the fork rebound more quickly. A lower oil level will make the fork rebound more slowly. - Fork springs: Optional springs are available that are softer and stiffer than standard K=4.5. - Using a stand underneath the chassis, stabilized the bike. - Put something under the engine so that the front wheel does not touch the ground. - Remove the air purge screw from the upper part of the front forks. (A) (A). Purge bolt. Adjusting the extension - To adjust the rebound, rotate the adjustment control (A) on the upper part of the front forks using a screwdriver. - Adjust the rebound according to your preferences under determined conditions. (B) Air Pressure The standard air pressure for the front forks is atmospheric pressure. The air pressure in the fork legs increases as operation progresses and therefore the forks become harder. (B). Adjustment control. -33- Adjust the return to the standard measures (rotating anti-clockwise, 12 positions). CAUTION The front fork left and right tubes must be at the same level and aligned with the plate. Adjusting the compression - To adjust the compression, rotate the adjustment control on the upper part of the front forks by hand. - Adjust the compression suited to your needs under certain conditions. Adjust the compression to the standard measures (rotating anticlockwise, 12 positions). Adjusting the oil level - Using the stand under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle upright. - Take out the handlebar bolts and take out the handlebars. - Remove the suspension caps from the rods. - Slowly compress the front forks all the way. - Lift the fork springs. - Holding the suspension rod cap with a spanner, loosen the cap locking counter nut. - Remove the suspension rod caps. - Remove the suspension spring guide. - Using a spanner, remove the springs from the forks. - Place the oil level indicator on the upper part of the fork tube and measure the distance from the upper part to the oil level. Standard oil level Marzocchi: 100 mm (A). Releasing oil. (B). Filling oil. Adjust to the level of oil required in the tables using the following oil: Recommended oil MARZOCCHI: SAE 7´5 -34- (1). Spring. (2). Counter nut. (3). Suspension cap. (4). Cap spanner. (5). Counter nut spanner. Suspension rod spring (A). Hydraulic rod - Pull on the hydraulic rod (A) slowly. - At this time, the fork oil comes out of the push rod hole, let it overflow until it stops. - Put the fork spring (1) into the fork tube. - Tighten the suspension spring and insert the spanner (5) onto the cap lock (3) counter nut (2). - Fit the suspension cap (3) to the fork tube and tighten to 29 Nm. - Fit the other fork. - Refit all removed parts. Different springs can be used depending on the weight of the driver and the track conditions. - Hard springs make the forks harder and the rebound faster. - Light springs make the forks softer and the rebound slower. Suspension plate position Ensure that the tyre does not touch the mudguard when the forks are fully compressed. There should be at least 5 mm clearance. CAUTION The right and left suspension rods must be adjusted equally. -35- Extension adjustment To adjust this, rotate the control on the rear of the shock by hand until noting a click. There is a possibility of 50 "Clicks" in total. The standard rebound is at : 25 "Clicks". (Anti-clockwise from the completely closed position). (1) (1). Fork tube height REAR SUSPENSION The rear suspension is made up of a shock absorber, swing arm, tie rods and rocker arm. In general the operating characteristics of the single shock are similar to the front fork however this is characterized as well as by the shock, the articulated quadrangle composed of the rods and rocker arm. To suit various riding conditions, the spring preload of the shock absorber can be adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an optional one. Also the dampening force can be adjusted easily so changing oil viscosity is unnecessary. (A). Rebound adjustment Compression adjustment To adjust, rotate the control on the gas reservoir using the point of a screwdriver until noticing a «click». There is a possibility of 60 "Clicks" in total. The standard rebound is at: 30 "Clicks". (Anti-clockwise from the completely closed position). -36- (A) Suspension spring The standard spring is a 5,4. The length of the preloaded spring with the shock in rest position is 258 mm. (A) (A). Nut (B). Spring. (C). Counter nut. (C) (A). Compression adjustment. Spring adjustment - Remove the seat and the side covers. - Loosen the bolt of the air filter conduit clamp. - Remove the silencer. - Remove the sub chassis with the air filter housing. (B) - Tighten the counter nut correctly. - Following the adjustment, move the spring up and down to ensure that this is correctly in place. - Refit all removed parts. Rear shock absorber spring replacement Stiffer or softer springs are available. If the standard spring is unsuitable for your purpose, select a proper one according to the rider's weight and course conditions. - Use of a stiffer spring: faster rebound. - Use of a softer spring: slower rebound. (B) (A) (A). Sub chassis. (B). Filter housing. -37- NOTE See the adjustments page 47. WARNING Improper removal of the spring from the rear shock absorber body may cause the spring and associated parts to be ejected at high velocity. Always wear eye and face protection. Removal and installation of spring should be performed by an official distributor. WHEELS Tyre . Tyre pressure affects traction, handling, and tyre life. . Adjust the tire pressure to suit track conditions and rider preference, but do not deviate excessively from the recommended pressure. NOTE Tyre pressure should be tested when the tyre is cold before driving. Track conditions - When the track is wet, muddy, sandy or slippery, reduce the tyre pressure. - When the track is stony or hard, increase the tyre pressure. Spokes and rims The spokes on both wheels must all be tightened securely and evenly and not be allowed to loosen, Unevenly tightened or loose spokes will cause the rim to warp, hasten nipple and overall spoke fatigue, and may result in spoke breakage. Centring the rim Put a quadrant gauge next to the rim and rotate the wheel to measure the axial centring. Put the dial on the inside of the rim circumference, rotate the wheel and the difference between the largest and smallest measurement is the centring measurement. If the wheel is slightly off-centre then this can be corrected by loosening certain spokes and tightening others in order to change the rim position. If the rim is bent or crooked then it must be replaced. (A). Spoke tightening tool NOTE A soldered area on the rim may give an excessive reading. Ignore this while measuring the centring. -38- Cleaning 1- Preparation for cleaning Before cleaning the motorcycle must be prepared so that water does not penetrate certain areas of the bike. The exhaust: Once this is cold, cover it with a plastic bag attached with rubber. Clutch and brake levers, grips and stop button: cover with a plastic bag. Air filter intake: cover this with insulation tape or a cloth. 3- After cleaning - Remove the plastic bags and clean the air filter intake. - Lubricate the locations listed in the lubrication section. - Start the engine and let it heat for 5 minutes. - Check the brakes before driving the bike. WARNING Never wax or lubricate the brake disk, this could lead to brake failure and could provoke an accident. Clean the disk using trichloroethylene or acetone. 2- Where to be careful Avoid spraying water with any great force near the following places: Disc brake master cylinders and callipers; under the fuel tank (If water gets into the ignition coil or into the spark plug cap, the spark will jump through the water and be grounded out; the affected parts must be dried). Front and rear hubs. Steering pivots (steering tube). Rear suspension system. Swing arm pivots. -39- Tighten bolts and nuts Every day before using the bike, rapidly ensure that all bolts and nuts are tightened. Also make certain that all of the other fastenings are in place and in good condition. 1 2 3 4 6 7 9 1 19 20 21 22 24 23 25 8 10 11 13 14 15 12 16 17 18 26 28 27 29 1- Front and rear wheels 2- Front forks 3- Handle bars 4- Clutch lever support bolt 6- Air filter housing bolts 7- Seat support bolts 8- Spokes 9- Disk plate screws 10- Front axle bolt 11- Brake attachment bolt 12- Sub chassis support bolt 13- Radiator support bolts 14- Nuts and bolts of the engine mounting 15- Shift pedal bolts 16- Chain guide bolts 17- Chain adjust bolt -40- 18- Rear axle bolt 19- Silencer support bolts 20- Sub chassis bolts 21- Rear shock bolts 22- Exhaust flange bolt 23- Upper suspension plate bolts 24- Steering head nut 25- Brake lever support bolt 26- Rod support bolt 27- Rear brake pedal bolt 28- Rod support bolt Rocker 29- Rocker arm bolt TIGHTENING TORQUE TABLE Tighten all of the bolts and nuts using the correct spanners. If not correctly tightened then motorcycle damage or even an accident could occur. PART NAME Nm Kgm E N G I N E C H A S S I S Engine drain plug Kick pedal bolt Kick pedal nut Shift pedal bolt Spark plug Water pump cover drain plug Calliper mounting bolts Disc plate mounting screws Engine mounting bolts Front axle bolt Front brake lever support bolt Fork flange bolt Steering nut Rear axle nut Rear brake pedal bolt Sub frame support bolt Rear shock absorber bolt Rear disc wheel drive bolt Spokes Steering axle bolt Rocker arm bolt Rod bolt 20 20 25 10 11 9 25 10 36 51 6 29 98 98 9 26 39 29 1.5 4 81 81 2,0 2,0 2,5 1,0 1,0 0,9 2,5 1,1 3,6 5,1 0,6 3,0 10,0 10,0 0,9 2,7 4,0 3,0 0,15 4,5 8,3 8,3 -41- LUBRICATION Lubricate the points shown here, with either motor oil or regular grease, periodically or whenever the vehicle is wet, and especially after using a high-pressure spray washer. Before lubricating each part, clean off any rusty spots with rust remover and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime. General lubrication - Clutch lever (A). - Front brake lever (B). - Rear brake pedal (C). - Rear brake bearing (D). - Shift pedal (E). (E) Use an aerosol with a pressure tube to lubricate (A) (B) (D) (D) (C) (C) -42- Use grease on the inner throttle cable Chain lubrication Lubricate the chain after wet terrain or when the chain looks dry. A high viscosity oil rather than low viscosity oil is better because it will stay a long time in chain providing lubrication. Put oil on the sides of the chain rollers (A) so that it penetrates into these; remove excess oil. The recommended viscosity is SAE 10W-50; if an SAE 10W-50 oil is not possible use an alternative according to the table above. Checking the oil level and making the changes periodically are two very important operations to keep the engine in perfect shape. Initially replace the oil after 5 hours of operation and then every 60 hours. NOTE The engine oil expands and thus the level increases when it is hot. Check and adjust the level when the motor oil is not hot. (A) (A). Greasing. ENGINE OIL Use a premium 4-stroke engine oil to lengthen the life of your motorcycle. Use oil classification SF or SG under the API classification. Changing the oil and filter The oil should be changed when the engine is hot, since this helps the oil to go out through the drain located in the lowest part of the engine. WARNING 20W-50 15W-40 10W-40 10W-30 15W-50 10W-50 ENGINE OIL The engine oil and the exhaust manifold can be very hot and cause burns. Wait until the oil and the exhaust manifold are a little cooler. ºC TEMP. ºF -30 -22 -20 -4 -10 -14 0 32 10 50 20 68 30 86 -43- WARNING Engine oil is a health risk. Avoid any contact with this given that this could provoke irritations and, in the worst cases, skin cancer. (C) 4. Remove the three screws next to the filter cover (C).(B - Keep new or used oil away from the reach of children and animals. - Clean clothes sleeves and pants. - Wash yourself with soap if oil has been in contact with your skin. To change the oil, follow the following steps: 1. Place a recipient underneath the crankcase. NOTE Put used motor oil in an appropriate container for recycling. (F) (D) (E) 5. Remove the filter cover, extract the filter element (D) and the seal (E). Always replace both elements at the same time. (B) WARNING 3. Drain the engine oil by removing the cap (B), keep the motorcycle vertical. -44- Always use original GAS GAS parts. If the filter is incorrectly positioned, the engine oil will not flow, provoking a malfunction in the engine. 6. Before replacing the oil filter, make sure that the spring (E) and the o-ring (F) are in the correct position. 7. Replace the filter cover and put the screws that secure the cover, but without tightening them too hard (do not exceed the recommended torque). WARNING The engine may be damaged if the oil is not used properly or the specifications recommended by GAS GAS MOTOS are not followed. Use the type of oil specified in the section on Petrol and Oil recommendations. 10. Start the engine and allow it to run for a few minutes. Check that no oil is lost through the filter cover. Stop the engine. 11. Check that the oil level is correct: stand the motorbike on a level surface and check that the oil covers the observation hole (I). 12. Add more oil through the orifice in the ignition cover (H) if necessary. (H) (I) (G) 8. Check the oil inlet filter. To do so, remove the cover of the oil inlet filter (G), clean the filter and check the O-rings. Install the filter again and replace the cover. 9.Replace the cover of the crankcase and tighten it. Add approximately 1,200 ml of new oil through the orifice in the ignition cover (H). -45- TUNING THE SUSPENSION No area of machine adjustment is more critical than proper suspension tuning; an incorrectly tuned suspension will keep even the best rider from attaining the full benefit of his machine's ability Check the suspension according to the pilot and the conditions of the terrain. When tuning the suspension don't forget: - If the machine is new, break-in the suspension with at least one hour of riding before making any setting evaluations or changes. - The major factors which must be considered in suspension tuning are: rider weight, rider skill and the track conditions (as well as the rider's style and positioning on the machine) - If you have a problem, test by changing your riding posture or position so that the cause of the problem can be deduced. - It is a wise practice to adjust suspension settings to suit the rider's strong points. If you are fast through the corners, adjust the suspension to allow fast cornering. -Make setting changes in small increments; a little bit goes a long way, and it is very easy to over adjust a setting. - The front and rear suspension should be balanced; when one is changed, the other should be changed similarly. When evaluating suspension performance the rider must make every effort to ride consciously and recognize the effects of his changes; such things as changes in rider position and increasing fatigue may lead to incorrect judgments about required setting adjustments. - When the proper settings have been determined for a particular track, they should be written down for reference when returning to that track. - Lubricate the bearings of the swinging arm, rods, rocker and joints before making changes and every 5 refills to prevent excess friction affecting the operation of the suspension. Front forks The fork oil level is adjustable. A change in the oil level will not affect the lower part of the stroke, but it will affect the upper part. - When the oil level is raised: The spring effect becomes more progressive, and the front fork action feels 'harder' in the later stage of travel, near the bottom of the stroke. - When the oil level is lowered: The spring effect becomes less progressive, and the front fork action feels softer near the bottom of the stroke. - Change the fork oil level correctly to make the forks work more at the end of fork travel. - If fork bottoming is experienced, raise fork oil level in 10 mm increments. This increase will cause a change in the upper stroke of the spring. Adjusting the oil level Adjust the oil level of the front forks (see the maintenance chart). High levelStandard level oil Low level Force Suspension stroke End of stroke -46- Changing incorrect adjustments Listed below are some symptoms of improper suspension settings and the most adequate means of correcting them. The proper settings can be achieved by applying the information in this chapter in a scientific manner. Simply take time a think about the changes you believe necessary, check them against the symptoms and cures described here, make the changes in small increments, and take notes on the changes and their effects. Front fork symptoms - The front forks are too stiff . Rebound adjustment incorrect. . The springs are too strong. . Too much oil. . Oil too dense. - The front forks stiffen at the end of the stroke . The fork oil level is too high. - The front forks operate but ride is too hard . Oil too dense. . Fork oil degraded - Too soft The front forks dive excessively during braking and deceleration 1. Front fork oil level low. 2. The springs are too soft. 3. Oil too light. 4. Fork oil degraded. 5. Rebound compression incorrect. Rear shock absorber symptoms - Too hard 1. Rigid suspension. . High compression. . Hard spring. 2. Hard driving. . Imbalance between the spring and rebound (too low). 3. The spring is hard or very preloaded - Too soft On landing after a big jump, bottoming occurs. . Spring too soft or compression damping is too soft . Shock oil degraded. Determining the Proper Settings - Standard adjustments From the factory, the machine is set up for an intermediate-weight rider possessing intermediate riding ability. If the rider weigh or ability is greater or lower than average then some adjustments may be made to the suspension. - Readjusting the suspension Type of surface Smooth Rough Soft spring Hard spring -47- Experience Beginner: softer spring with more rebound damping. Experienced: Harder spring. Weight Heavy: harder spring. Light: soft spring Track type - Many corners: Lower the front end slightly (increase the fork tube height 5mm). This increases agility. - Fast course with many jumps: Lift the front (lower the fork tube height to 5mm). This increases stability. - Deep pits or sandy ground: Lift the front for increased stability. Following the preliminary adjustments, make a trial run on the ground to evaluate the changes. Remember: 1- Always make changes in small increments. 2- Make sure the rider is logical in their evaluation. 3- A change in the front suspension requires a change in the rear suspension and vice-versa. Front and rear compatibility Use this procedure to determine if the suspension is balanced reasonably well: Situate the motorcycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground. While standing next to the machine, pull on the front brake and place one foot on the brake firmly. If the bike maintains its level attitude as the suspension is compressed, the suspensions are well balanced. Sit astride the bike and take up a riding posture the check to see if the bike is in a horizontal position. If one end drops noticeably more than the other, the front and rear are not compatible and must be readjusted to achieve a better balance. This is one of the most effective adjustment procedures but suspension settings will vary depending on the conditions at the track and the rider's preferences. Front end searching going downhill or accelerating out of a bend ? Front forks too soft. 1. Increase the compression damping or rebound damping. 2. Increase the oil level 10 mm. 3. Use alternate harder spring, or increase spring preload. Front end knifes or over-steers in turns (front end tends to turn inward)? Front forks too soft. 1. Increase the compression damping or rebound damping. 2. Increase the oil level 10 mm. Front end pushes out or slides in turns 1. Decrease the compression damping or rebound damping. 2. Release air from the fork. 3. Reduce the oil level 10 - 20 mm. 4. Use a softer spring. -48-