User manual EASYHEAT ROOF AND GUTTER

Roof & Gutter De-Icing Kit Model ADKS Owners Manual READ, SAVE AND PASS ON these instructions to anyone who will be using this cable, including future users/homeowners. ©2002 Easy Heat The Underwriters Laboratory (UL) listing to Canadian safety standards and the Canadian Standards Association (CSA) certification are valid only when the kit is installed, used, operated and maintained according to the following instructions. Questions? If you have questions regarding installation, operation or maintenance of this kit, call toll-free 800/562-6587 for assistance, Monday through Friday, 9 AM to 5 PM EST. Online: http://www.easyheat.com ADKS Owners Manual 1 11629-001 Rev. 0 ADKS Owners Manual ©2002 Easy Heat 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS I. II. Important Safety Information ................................................ 5 Pre-Installation Planning & Information ................................ 7 Purpose of this Product ............................................................. 7 Who Should Install the Cable .................................................... 7 When to Install the Cable .......................................................... 7 Determining What Areas Need Cable ...................................... 7 Checking Cable Length ............................................................. 7 Roof, Gutter & Downspout Requirements ............................ 8 Electrical Requirements ......................................................... 8 Materials Needed for Installation .......................................... 9 ADKS Kit Materials .................................................................... 9 Additional Tools & Materials Required ...................................... 9 Installing the Cable ............................................................... 10 Planning Your Cable Arrangement .......................................... 10 Proper Handling & Care of the Cable ..................................... 13 Testing the Cable ..................................................................... 13 Preparing Your Roof, Gutters & Downspouts ......................... 13 Attaching the Cable ................................................................. 14 Final Installation Steps ............................................................. 17 Use & Maintenance of the Cable ......................................... 18 Pre-Season Checks .................................................................. 18 Turning the Cable On and Off ................................................. 18 Checking Operation and Condition of Cable .......................... 19 Resetting Circuit Breaker/Replacing Blown Fuse .................... 19 Off-Season Instructions ........................................................... 19 Removing the Cable ............................................................. 19 Limited Warranty ................................................................. 20 Appendix A: Basic Information About Ice Dam Formation and Prevention ............................... 21 Appendix B: Estimating the Cable Length You Need ......... 22 3 III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX. X. XI. ADKS Owners Manual This page left intentionally blank ADKS Owners Manual 4 I. IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION WARNING Improper installation, use, operation or maintenance of this product may result in injury or death from electric shock or fire. It may also result in property damage from ice dams. Read and follow the instructions in this manual. If you have questions, call toll-free 800/562-6587 for assistance. Give this manual to anyone who will be using this cable, including future users/homeowners. To reduce the risk of ice dam formation or injury or death from electric shock or fire: Follow all electrical requirements for using this product. See Electrical Requirements section on pages 8 9 for details. In summary, these requirements include using a 120 volt A/C outdoor receptacle that meets all of the following: Is grounded. Is ground fault protected. Or, use the Easy Heat Cable Sentry (Model HCP1, sold separately). Is on a circuit that has an appropriate current (amp) rating. Has an on/off switch that has an indicator light (pilot light). Is protected from the weather. Is within 6 feet of the cable starting point on the roof. Easy Heat recommends that you do not use an extension cord with this cable. If you are unsure whether your electrical receptacle meets these requirements, contact your local electrical inspector or a licensed electrician. Avoid overheating the cable. For example: Do not allow the heated portion of an operating cable to touch, cross over or overlap itself or to touch another deicing cable. Do not operate the cable in warm weather (above 50°F or10°C). Do not install cable where it might be warmed by sources of heat, such as an exhaust vent or chimney. Do not alter or modify the cable in any way. For example: do not cut or splice the cable, or paint or expose it to chemicals, such as glue, caulk or adhesive. Keep all combustible materials away from the cable, such as leaves, pine needles, seeds or windblown trash. Do not attach the cable to a combustible material, such as any wooden parts of the eave. Do not use a cable that is damaged or has deteriorated. Dispose of it. Signs of damage include: cuts, brittleness, charring, cracking, discolored surfaces, or bare wires. Use this product only as intended and described in this manual. ADKS Owners Manual 5 This page left intentionally blank ADKS Owners Manual 6 II. PRE-INSTALLATION PLANNING & INFORMATION A. PURPOSE OF THIS PRODUCT This deicing cable is designed to prevent ice buildup, known as ice dams, from forming on roofs and in gutters and downspouts. When properly installed and operated, this product creates a path for melted snow or ice (melt water) to drain from the roof to the ground. Do not install this product to remove ice dams that have already formed or to clear the roof of ice and snow. Do not use this deicing cable for any other purposes, such as to melt snow on sidewalks or to protect pipes from freezing. Easy Heat offers other products designed for these purposes. See your local dealer or call Easy Heat toll-free at 800/562-6587. Improved ventilation (cooling) of the space underneath the roof surface, if possible, can also reduce the likelihood of ice dam formation. To avoid ice dams, the entire roof surface should be kept at the same temperature as the outside air. Consult a professional roofer for expert advice on roof venting; refer to Appendix A on page 21. To solve ice dam problems when snow and ice are on the roof, contact a professional roofer for expert advice. To prevent future ice dams, you can install the deicing cable once the ice and snow have melted and before the next winter season. The temperature allows for lifting of the shingle tabs In general, the temperature should be between 32° and 80°F (0°C and 27°C). Below 32°F (0°C), shingles are brittle and may break off when lifted to install the cable clips. Above 80°F (27°C), shingles may be warm and may tear when lifted to install the cable clips. D. DETERMINING WHAT AREAS NEED CABLE In general, the cable should be installed on roof areas where ice dams are likely to form. Depending on the exposure to the sun, prevailing wind direction and roof shape, the susceptible area may be the entire roof edge, or it may be specific areas, such as underneath skylights, in roof valleys or around dormers. Ice dams can be identified at points where snow has melted on an upper roof surface, but the area below is still snow and/or ice covered. Icicles are also a sign of ice dams. Cable should also be installed in any nearby gutters, downspouts and/or valleys so that a clear path is provided for melt water to drain. If your previous ice dam problems have only included ice forming in the gutter and there are no ice dam problems on the roof, install the cable in the gutter and downspouts only. See Planning Your Cable Arrangement on pages 10 13 for details on the proper layout of the cable and Appendix A on page 21 for more information about ice dam formation and prevention. B. WHO SHOULD INSTALL THE CABLE Although the installation of the cable does not require special skills, you may wish to hire a professional for a variety of reasons. For example, if you are uncertain about any of the Electrical Requirements on pages 8 - 9, or if you are not comfortable working on a ladder or on the roof, you may need to hire a professional, such as a licensed electrician. Also, slate, stone, ceramic and metal roofs require professional installation and special considerations. Contact Easy Heat for more information toll-free at 800/562-6587. C. WHEN TO INSTALL THE CABLE The deicing cable may be installed when: There is no ice or snow on the roof Do not use this cable to melt snow and ice that has already formed on your roof or in your gutters or downspouts, as you would not be able to attach the cable properly with the clips. Additionally, this cable was not designed to melt snow; rather, it simply provides a path for snow or ice that has already melted (meltwater) to flow to the ground. E. CHECKING CABLE LENGTH After you have determined what areas need cable (see above), see Appendix B on pages 2225 to check your estimation of the length of cable that you need. ADKS Owners Manual 7 III.ROOF, GUTTER & DOWNSPOUT REQUIREMENTS This kit is only designed for use on: inclined roofs. An inclined roof is one where the water is expected to flow off the roof edge. roofs with noncombustible tab shingles (such as asphalt shingles) that meet national building codes. metal or plastic gutters/downspouts. Is ground-fault protected. A ground-fault protected receptacle reduces the risk of fire or electric shock by stopping the flow of electricity (current) when it senses that current is flowing through something other than the cable (for example, a person or downspout). This unintended current: can be caused by a damaged cable, may not be large enough to trip a circuit breaker, can lead to overheating of the cable, which can result in fire, and may result in electrocution due to exposed electrical parts. One type of ground-fault protection is a ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI). Some, but not all, outdoor receptacles are equipped with a GFCI. If you are not sure if your receptacle has ground-fault protection, check with your local electrical inspector or a licensed electrician, or use the Easy Heat Heating Cable Protector (HCP1) (sold separately). The Easy Heat Heating Cable Protector (HCP1) is a ground-fault protection device that is intended primarily to protect against fire. The HCP1 also provides some protection against electric shock and electrocution, but it does not reduce the risk as much as a GFCI. Is on a circuit that has an appropriate current (amp) rating. Do not use this cable on a circuit whose circuit breaker or fuse is rated at more than 20 amps. Limiting the circuit to a maximum of 20 amps will reduce the risk of fire and electric shock if the cable becomes damaged. While a 20 amp circuit is the maximum allowed, you also need to check that the circuit can supply enough current without being overloaded. Overloading a circuit can lead to a tripped breaker or a blown fuse. To avoid overloading the circuit, do not use more than 80% of the circuits rated capacity (for example, do not load a 20 amp circuit more than 16 amps, and do not load a 15 amp circuit above 12 amps). See Table 1 below for the current needed for your cable length. If you do not have a circuit with an appropriate rating, contact a licensed electrician. Use of this kit on any other type of roof, gutter or downspout increases the risk of ice dam formation or injury or death from electric shock or fire. Do not use this kit on any other type of roof, gutter and downspout, including: Roofs with wooden shingles. Rubber or rubber membrane roofs. Composite (tar and gravel) roofs. Wooden gutters or downspouts. Flat roofs. Slate, stone or ceramic and metal roofs. These types of roofs require special consideration. Contact Easy Heat for more information toll-free at 800/562-6587. If you are unsure if your roof, gutters, and downspouts meet these requirements, call a professional roofing contractor. WARNING IV. ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS There are several requirements for the electrical system that supplies power to this deicing cable. Check with your local electrical inspector or a licensed electrician if you are unsure about the requirements listed below or what you may need to do in order to meet all applicable electrical codes and ordinances. Failure to meet these electrical system requirements may result in ice dam formation or injury or death from electric shock or fire. This cable must be plugged into a 120 volt A/C outdoor receptacle that: Is grounded. This cable is equipped with a three-prong plug that has a grounding prong. To reduce the risk of fire and electric shock, this cable must be grounded. To do this, the plug must be plugged into an outlet that is properly installed and grounded in accordance with all local electrical codes and ordinances. Do not modify the plug provided with the cable. If it will not fit the outlet, have a proper outlet installed by a licensed electrician. WARNING Table 1 Current Needed for Easy Heat De-Icing Products Catalog Number ADKS-100 ADKS-150 ADKS-300 ADKS-400 ADKS-500 ADKS-600 ADKS-800 ADKS-1000 ADKS-1200 Current Needed (Amps) 0.83 1.3 2.5 3.3 4.2 5.0 6.7 8.3 10.0 ADKS Owners Manual 8 Has an on/off switch that has an indicator light (pilot light ). The indicator light should be wired to light up when your cable is energized. This will help you minimize energy consumption and make sure that the cable is not energized in warm weather. Turning on the cable in warm weather can cause it to overheat and may increase the risk of fire or electric shock. Is protected from the weather. The connection between the plug and receptacle must be protected from rain, snow or other elements. You may use either: a receptacle in a location that is protected from the elements. Sometimes an eave can provide adequate protection. a receptacle that has a weatherproof enclosure, similar to that shown below. This type of enclosure is some times called an inuse receptacle cover. PILOT LIGHT V. MATERIALS NEEDED FOR INSTALLATION A. ADKS KIT MATERIALS This Kit contains: Cable Cable spacers Shingle clips Labels for circuit breaker and ON/OFF switch CABLE SPACER Figure 1a. ON/OFF switch with indicator (pilot light) ble ng ca ice of de-ici tter . Risk ec tr ic & gu __ el roof uit # __ h fr om b e fo re l rc at Heat gu er asy d on ci or de M a n u a . tt E ry of & se e le ls e instals or in ju re .roS e ro ing fu or ic fi nt replac fire . da m it chr co keRisk of2-6587 O F F r/ or ck o shsw g brea 800/56 This o ttinca bl e.alltu rn ed O N y H ea t ng ns h C rese de -i ciuestioitc? is S e e E as . sw e. Q m if 65 87 NING WAR G ARNIN W tim da 0/ 56 2ro ng at w l or ca ll 80 Manua SHINGLE CLIP CABLE LABELS Figure 1b. In-use receptacle cover Power Cord Heated Portion of Cable Figure 2. ADKS kit materials Is within 6 feet of the cable starting point on the roof. [Refer to Planning Your Cable Arrangement on pages 10 13.] The power cord of the cable is 6 feet long, and the remainder of the cable is heated. Choosing a receptacle that is within 6 feet of the start point will make sure that the heated portion of the cable is entirely on the roof. This will also avoid contact by persons or equipment (such as yard tools) that can move or damage the cable. The use of a properly located receptacle will also eliminate the need for an extension cord. Easy Heat recommends that you do not use an extension cord with this cable. The use of an extension cord with this cable may increase the risk of fire or electric shock. Remember, there may be different or additional requirements related to local or national codes and ordinances. Check with your local electrical inspector or a licensed electrician if you are unsure about these codes and ordinances. If any components of this kit are missing or damaged, contact Easy Heat for assistance toll-free at 800/562-6587. B. ADDITIONAL TOOLS & MATERIALS REQUIRED You will also need the following: Tape Measure, to measure lengths of roof edge, overhang, etc. Ladder, or other access to roof Putty Knife, to pry up shingles Marking Chalk, to mark cable pattern on shingles Weighted String (with string at least as long as the longest downspout), to measure cable needed in downspouts and to pull the cable through downspouts File, to remove sharp or jagged edges along gutters and downspouts ADKS Owners Manual 9 VI. INSTALLING THE CABLE WARNING Failure to handle, arrange and install the cable according to these instructions may result in ice dam formation or injury or death from electric shock or fire. Choose a starting point. The cable starting point must not be near any entrance areas, sidewalks, etc. to avoid contact by persons or equipment (such as yard tools) that can move or damage the cable. You may also want to avoid having the cable power cord routed in front of windows or high-visibility areas of your home. For more information on selecting a location for an electrical outlet, see Electrical Requirements on pages 8-9. If an electrical outlet already exists in an appropriate location near the eave, then that defines your starting point. Otherwise, select an appropriate starting point and have an electrical outlet installed. (See Electrical Requirements on pages 8-9) Plan the pattern for your roof. Methods for arranging the cable pattern for different parts of the roof are provided on the following pages. The cable does not have to be installed in all of these sections only in the sections that have been susceptible to ice dams in the past (see Determining What Areas Need Cable on page 7). You may or may not need to install cable along the roofline or near skylights or dormers. However, always install cable in valleys that are a part of any problem area on your roof. Figure similar to #5 with cable] A. PLANNING YOUR CABLE ARRANGEMENT Before laying out and attaching the cable to your roof, it is important to plan how the cable will be arranged. To prevent ice dams, the cable pattern must be arranged so that it routes meltwater to flow from warm areas of the roof through the cold areas and down to the ground. A warm area of your roof is one where snow and ice on the roof thaws because of heat loss through inadequate roof venting and/or insufficient ceiling insulation. Cold areas of your roof are areas where ice typically builds up, such as the roof surfaces above overhangs and in gutters. (See Appendix A on page 21 for more information on the warm and cold areas.) In general, you need to apply the cables in the following areas: On roof areas, including: along the roofline in valleys in problem areas, such as skylights and dormers (if needed) In nearby gutters and downspouts WARNING! To avoid overheating the cable and increasing the risk of fire or electric shock, do not allow any part of a cable to pass through the inside of any area of a building, including an attic. For example, do not install the cable in a downspout that has a section that passes through a building. In addition, do not install cable where it might be warmed by sources of heat, such as an exhaust vent or chimney. Keep the cable at least 12 inches from these sources of heat. This section will also describe how to treat separate areas with multiple cables, and how to handle cable shortage or excess. Figure 3. Typical pattern along roofline and in gutters/ downspouts TIP: If you will be working directly on the roof during the installation, you may want to mark the cable pattern with chalk before attaching the cable. If working from a ladder, you will probably want to lay out the pattern as you attach the cable with the clips. Making a drawing of your roof and your planned pattern on paper may be helpful. ADKS Owners Manual 10 Pattern for the roofline: Cable laid along the roofline is arranged in a triangular pattern (see Figure 4). The cable must extend above the overhang into the warm section of the roof. To determine the height of the triangles, measure the depth of the overhang. The triangle heights are measured by the number of shingle rows from the roof edge (based on the standard 51/2 inch tab shingles). Using Table 2, determine the height of each triangle. Using this method, the triangles will extend at least one shingle row (51/2 inches) into the warm roof area. The base of each triangle is always 15 inches wide. If you have nonstandard shingles (not 51/2 inches wide) call Easy Heat toll-free at 800/562-6587 for assistance. Table 2 Triangle Heights for Various Overhangs Overhang (inches) 12 18 18 24 24 30 30 36 36 42 42 48 12 or less Triangle Height (Shingle Rows) 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 Triangle Height (See Table 2) 48 54 54 60 60 66 66 72 Triangle Base (15 inches) Figure 4. Triangle pattern along roofline Pattern for skylights: Problem skylight areas are also treated with the triangle pattern approach. However, the height of the triangles may need to be greater than those along the roofline. Increase the triangle height so that it extends to one shingle row (51/2 inches) below the skylight. The triangle base is maintained at 15 inches (See Figure 5). Triangle heights must not exceed 20 feet. The clips provided with the kit are not designed to attach triangles this large. For problem areas that are more than 20 feet from the roof edge, commercial grade deicing cable should be installed by a professional installer. Call Easy Heat toll-free at 800/562-6587 for more information. Triangle Base (15 inches) Figure 5. Triangle pattern near skylight ADKS Owners Manual 11 Pattern for valleys: If a valley exists in a problem area of your roof, you must route cable up and back down the valley a minimum of 3 feet, as shown in Figure 6. Extend the cable higher if the warm area of your roof is higher. Pattern for other special roof areas: Other problem roof areas not previously described may also be treated with deicing cable to prevent ice dam formation. Trianglessimilar to those used for the rooflinecan also be used to treat these special areas. In treating these special problem areas, the height of the triangles may be greater than those used at the roof edge. Keep the triangle base at 15 inches, but increase the triangle height so it extends at least one shingle row (51/2 inches) into the warm roof section. Triangle heights must not exceed 20 feet. The clips provided with the kit are not designed to attach triangles this large. For problem areas that are more than 20 feet from the roof edge, commercial grade deicing cable should be installed by a professional installer. Call Easy Heat toll-free at 800/562-6587 for more information. Figure 6. Cable pattern in a valley Pattern for dormers: To treat a problem dormer area, the cable should be arranged up and around the dormer as shown in Figure 7. Plan the cable pattern in the gutters and downspouts. For each roof area that has cable, the corresponding gutter (if present) must also have cable. After arranging the cable along the roofline, the cable will need to be installed back along the treated roofline through the gutter. Plan to install the cable down into and back up the inside of any downspouts along the way. If there is a downspout at the end of the roofline, you need only route the cable down the inside of the downspout (and not back up). Remember, to avoid overheating the cable and increasing the risk of fire or electric shock, no part of the downspout may pass through a building. Figure 8. Cable routed back along the roofline in the gutter and downspouts Figure 7. Cable pattern around a dormer ADKS Owners Manual 12 If your icing problems are only in the gutter, cable would be routed only in the gutter and downspouts using a double run of cable, as shown in Figure 9. B. PROPER HANDLING & CARE OF THE CABLE WARNING Improper handling can damage the cable and may result in ice dam formation or injury or death from electric shock or fire. Properly handle and care for the cable: End of run Along run Figure 9. Double cable run in gutter and downspouts Consider the number of cables. If separate areas are being treated, it may be more practical to use separate cables. When planning your cable arrangement, consider where each cable will be routed given its length. It is also possible to use one common cable for both areas; the cable can be routed from one area to the next either in the gutter or horizontally attached to the shingles. Do not route the cable over the roof peak, because the clips are not designed for this purpose. Consider cable shortage or excess. Consider how you will handle any excess or slight shortage of cable. For excess cable, triangles can be made larger (up to 20 feet in height) or cable loops in valleys can be extended. Alternatively, if a downspout is present at the end of the roofline being treated, cable may be routed back up the downspout to take up excess. For slight shortages, triangles can be made smaller in areas less sensitive to ice dams. Do not step on the cable. Do not bend cable more sharply than required for use with the clips included with the kit and according to the installation instructions. Sharp bends can damage the heating element. Do not allow the heated portion of an operating cable to touch, cross over or overlap itself or to touch another deicing cable. Do not cut, splice or alter the deicing cable in anyway. Do not cover or insulate any part of the cable. Do not paint or expose the cable to chemicals such as glue, caulk or adhesive. C. TESTING THE CABLE Although it is not necessary, you may wish to test the cable before installation. To do so, uncoil it completely so it does not touch, cross over or overlap on itself. Do not plug in the cable until it has been completely uncoiled. Plug cable in, and in approximately 5 minutes, it should feel slightly warm to the touch. Then unplug the cable. D. PREPARING YOUR ROOF, GUTTERS & DOWNSPOUTS Follow these steps BEFORE installing the deicing cable: 1. Remove any existing deicing cables, or heating cables, clips and cable spacers in the area where the new cable will be installed. (See Removing the Cable on page 19.) 2. Remove any combustible debris from the roof, gutters and down spouts, such as leaves, pine needles, seeds or windblown trash. 3. Look and feel for sharp or jagged edges along gutters and downspouts that could damage the cable. Sharp or jagged edges could include gutter edges, downspout fittings or screws. Remove sharp or jagged edges by either filing or bending them down. WARNING! To reduce the risk of fire, electric shock, or ice dam formation, do not cut, splice or alter the deicing cable in anyway. The cable length cannot be changed. ADKS Owners Manual 13 E. ATTACHING THE CABLE WARNING Improper handling can damage the cable and may result in ice dam formation or injury or death from electric shock or fire. This section describes how to use the clips and cable spacers to attach the cable to each area of your roof and route it through the gutters and downspouts. Use only the clips and spacers provided to attach the cable. Do not attempt to staple or nail the cable or attach the cable with materials such as glue, caulk or adhesive. While the cable is being laid-out on the roof, loose attachment of the clips and spacers is recommended in case adjustments must be made. Uncoiling the cable. To attach the cable properly, it must lie flat on the roof. To do this, uncoil the cable so it is not twisted or tangled. If not properly uncoiled, the cable may be hard to clip to your roof. Attaching the cable at the starting point. Near the outlet, first, attach the cable to the edge of the roof near the outlet using the clips as shown in Figure 10 or 11. Do not plug in the cable at this time. Then, route your cable as planned on your roof or in your gutter and downspouts. Details on clip and spacer attachment are provided in the following sections. Figure 11. Starting point along gutter edge Attaching the cable to your roof with clips and cable spacers. This section describes how to attach the cable to the roof using the clips and spacers. At tops of triangles along edge of roof Taking care not to tear the shingle tab, lift it gently and evenly using a putty knife. Lift the shingle just enough to insert clip. Press shingle back down firmly. Note: Shingles will reseal in hot weather. Figure 12. Attaching clips to shingles at top of triangles At bottoms of triangles along edge of roof Form a drip loop over roof edge to direct melt water into the gutter or to the ground. There should be a minimum of 2 inches between the bottom of the drip loop and the bottom of the gutter. drip loop drip loop Figure 13. Attaching clips to shingles at edge of roof with gutters Figure 14. Attaching clips to shingles at edge of roof without gutters Figure 10. Starting point near roof edge ADKS Owners Manual 14 Along the rise of large triangles For triangles that are larger than 3 feet in height, also attach clips every 3 feet up the height of the roof. Routing the cable along the gutter using cable spacers. This section describes how to route the cable along the gutter using spacers. While the cable is being laid in the gutter, the spacers can be tightened with fingers or pliers. If you use pliers, squeeze gently and use care to avoid pinching, crimping, cutting into or otherwise damaging the cable (see Figure 18). Do not use a hammer to tighten the clips and spacers. Figure 15. Attaching clips along rise of larger triangles Around dormers Figure 16 shows how to use a clip to attach the cable when the cable is running vertically around a dormer. Lift the side edge of the shingle gently to insert clip sideways. Figure 18. Squeezing spacers with pliers Route the cable in the gutter along a treated area of roofline. Using a spacer, fasten the gutter cable to the bottom of each drip loop you have formed. See Figure 19. Keep the cable in the gutter tight and off the bottom of the gutter to prevent heat loss. Figure 16. Attaching clips around dormers Near skylights Triangles of cable are attached near skylights the same way as shown in Figures 12, 13 and 14. If the skylight is high up the roof (making the triangles larger than 3 feet in height), clips must also be attached every 3 feet up the height of the roof, as shown in Figure 15. Up and down valleys Figure 17 shows how to use a clip to attach the cable up and down the valley. Lift the side edge of the shingle gently to insert clip sideways. Figure 17. Attaching clips in valleys Figure 19. Attaching clips in gutters 2" 15 ADKS Owners Manual If you are treating only the gutters for ice problems, use a double-run of cable in the gutters and downspouts. Figure 20a shows a gutter installed with gutter spikes. Route the cable under and over the gutter spike to keep the cable suspended off of the bottom of the gutter. Spacers should be attached every 12 inches. Figure 20b shows a gutter with external gutter straps. Use the clips and spacers to keep the cable suspended off the bottom of the gutter. Clips should be attached every 3 feet along the roof. Figure 20a. Double run of cable in gutter-only applications (gutters with gutter-spikes) Routing the cable in downspouts using cable spacers Along run downspouts. For downspouts that are along the run of the roofline being treated, the cable must be routed down and back up the inside of the downspout. Do not wrap the cable around the downspout or otherwise attempt to attach it to the outside. Remember: to avoid overheating the cable and increasing the risk of fire or electric shock, no part of the downspout may pass through a building. You must first determine the total length of cable needed to go down and back up the downspout. It is important to measure as accurately as possible because the cable must be flush with the end of the downspout. No cable may be extended out the end of the downspout. Several different methods for determining the length may be used. One is to tie a small weight (such as a washer) to a string and lower it into the downspout. Once the string passes Figure 20b. Double run of cable in gutter-only applications (gutters without gutter spikes) through the bottom of the downspout, mark the string as needed to record the length of the downspout. You will need twice this length of cable. (Note: For accurate results, use a string that does not stretch when the small weight is attached.) Alternatively, you could also use a tape measure to measure each section of the downspout. To calculate the total cable needed, add the measurements in each section and multiply by 2. Lastly, if it is not possible to use either one of these above methods, you may use the cable itself to estimate the length of cable needed in the downspout. However, to avoid snagging or cutting the cable on sharp edges, take care when pulling the cable into and removing it from the downspout. Inspect the cable for damage and do not use a cable that has been damaged. Once you know the length of cable needed, the next step is to install spacers and feed the cable into the downspout. Spacers must be attached to the cable every 6 inches so that the cable does not touch itself in the downspout. You must tighten the spacers before the cable is installed in the downspout. You may do this with your fingers or pliers. If you use pliers, squeeze gently and use care to avoid pinching, crimping, cutting into or otherwise damaging the cable (see Figure 18). Do not hammer to tighten the clips and spacers. Pull the cable into the downspout using a weighted string. Figure 21. Double cable run in along run downspouts ADKS Owners Manual 16 End of run downspouts. If a downspout exists at the end of the run of the roofline being treated, the cable must be routed down the inside of the downspout. There is no need to route it back up. Do not wrap the cable around the downspout or attempt to attach it to the outside. Pull cable into downspouts using weighted string. Be sure the run of cable is flush with the end of the downspout and that no cable is extended out the end of the downspout (see Figure 22). Remember: to avoid overheating the cable and increasing the risk of fire or electric shock, no part of the downspout may pass through a building. If at this point you find that you have an excess of cable, you may route the cable back up the downspout to take up this excess. Alternatively, triangles on the roof can be made larger (up to 20 feet in height) or cable loops in valleys can be extended. If you have a shortage of cable (the end of the cable does not reach to the bottom of the downspout), you may reduce the height of the triangles on areas of the roof that are less susceptible to ice dams. Tighten clips and cable spacers. Tighten clips and spacers on the roof. You may do this with your fingers or with pliers. If you use pliers, squeeze gently and use care to avoid pinching, crimping, cutting into, or otherwise damaging the cable (see Figure 18). Do not use a hammer to tighten the clips and spacers. F. FINAL INSTALLATION STEPS Check to be sure the cable has not been moved from its intended position. The heated portion of the cable must be positioned entirely on the roof and must not touch, cross over or overlap itself. Place the ON/OFF switch label provided so that it is clearly visible to current and future users. The label is provided in two languages. Use both English and French labels if appropriate. Otherwise, save French labels and pass on to future users/homeowners. Place the labels for the Circuit Breaker/Fuse Panel near the appropriate circuit breaker/fuse so that they are clearly visible to current and future users. The labels are provided in two languages. Use both English and French labels if appropriate. Otherwise, save French labels and pass on to future users/homeowners. Give the instructions to the user. If you have installed the cable for someone elses use, give this owners manual to them. WARNING!To reduce the risk of fire electric shock, or ice dam forma- tion, do not cut splice or alter the deicing cable in anyway. The cable length cannot be changed. Figure 22. Cable in end of run downspouts ADKS Owners Manual 17 VII. USE & MAINTENANCE OF THE CABLE In addition to proper installation, proper use of the cable is needed to maintain a path for melted snow or ice to drain all the way to the ground. Figure 24. Forming a drip loop near the starting point Drip Loop WARNING Failure to use and maintain the cable according to these instructions may result in ice dam formation or injury or death from fire or electric shock. A. PRE-SEASON CHECKS At the beginning of the winter season, do the following: Check for and remove all combustible debris from roof, gutters and downspouts, such as leaves, pine needles, seeds and windblown trash. Check to be sure the cable has not been moved from its intended position. The heated portion of the cable must be positioned entirely on the roof and must not touch, cross over, or overlap itself. Without removing it from the roof, visually inspect the entire cable, including the plug. Discontinue use and remove the cable if it shows any evidence of damage or deterioration, including cuts, brittleness, charring, cracking, discolored surfaces, or bare wires. If there appears to be a problem inside a downspout, remove the cable to inspect it. Take care when removing cable from a downspout to avoid snagging or cutting the cable on sharp edges. If no damage is present, plug the power cord into the receptacle. Arrange the cord to form a drip loop using a spacer (see Figure 24). The purpose of the drip loop is to prevent melt water from tracking along the cord and into the receptacle. Test all ground-fault protection devices (see the instructions provided with the device). B. TURNING THE CABLE ON AND OFF During the winter season, turn on the cable only when conditions are favorable for ice dams to form. The cable should only be operated when: snow or ice on the roof is melting, and The outside temperature is between 15°F and 35°F (-9°C and 2°C). Below 15°F (-9°C), very little melting will normally occur, and in very cold conditions, the cable may not generate enough heat in some roof sections to prevent melt water from refreezing. This may result in ice dam formation which may cause water to backup under your shingles. Once turned on, the cable should be shut off when the melt/freeze condition stops, usually above temperatures of 35°F (2°C). The cable should be kept off until the melt/freeze conditions return. The cable can be operated using: an ON/OFF switch (with an indicator light), or an optional Easy Heat Roof Cable Deicing Control (Model RS-2). The Roof Cable Deicing Control (model number RS-2) is a moisture and temperature sensor control that provides for operation of deicing cable only when moisture is present and when temperatures drop below freezing. The unit will then remain on until moisture is no longer present or the temperature has risen well above freezing. See your local dealer for details. ADKS Owners Manual 18 C. CHECKING OPERATION AND CONDITION OF CABLE During the winter season and when snow or ice on roof is melting, check to ensure a complete path is available for melt water on the roof to get to the ground. There should be no ice buildup above the cables, and gutters should not be clogged with ice. Icicles should not form at the roof edge. If icing problems persist, the cable pattern may need to be adjusted to better suit melt/freeze conditions of your roof. Observe these conditions and adjust cable pattern (see Planning Your Cable Arrangement pages 10 13) when conditions are suitable (see When to Install Cable on page 7). To adjust your cable pattern, first unplug the cable. Then, identify areas where there is extra cable. This may include excess cable you had during the original installation or you may be able to reduce the cable in an area that is not as susceptible to ice dams. Remove the cable by opening the clips and spacers with pliers, as needed, to rearrange and supply more cable to the needed areas. During operation, the ground fault protection device may trip if the cable is damaged or as a result of nuisance tripping. One way in which nuisance tripping can occur is if parts of the electrical circuit become wet. This can happen if driving rain or blowing snow enter the electrical receptacle. Use of a weatherproof in-use receptacle may help eliminate this (see page 9). Before resetting the ground fault protection device and when weather and roof ice conditions allow, unplug and inspect the entire cable for damage. Remove and dispose of the cable if it shows any evidence of damage or deterioration, including cuts, brittleness, charring, cracking, discolored surfaces, or bare wires. Do not use a damaged cable. If you cannot see damage on the cable, reset the ground fault protection device. If the device trips again and there is no other explanation for it, call a licensed electrician to check the cable and the circuit. A licensed electrician can determine if the cable is damaged or if there is some other problem with your electrical system. As needed during winter season, unplug the cable and check for and remove all combustible debris from roof, gutters and down spouts, such as leaves, pine needles, seeds and windblown trash. About once a month during winter season, unplug the cable and perform the same checks as outlined in the Pre-Season Checks section on page 18. Do these checks when weather and roof ice conditions allow. D. RESETTING CIRCUIT BREAKER/REPLACING BLOWN FUSE At any time during operation, if the circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows, stop using the cable. Unplug and inspect the entire cable for damage when conditions allow. Remove and dispose of the cable if it shows any evidence of damage or deterioration, including cuts, brittleness, charring, cracking, discolored surfaces, or bare wires. Do not use a damaged cable. Even if you cannot see damage on the cable, assume it is damaged if you cannot find another cause for the tripped breaker or blown fuse. E. OFF-SEASON INSTRUCTIONS The deicing cable may remain on the roof year-round. However, to avoid overheating the cable and increasing the risk of fire or electric shock, do not operate the cable when outdoor temperatures begin to remain above 50°F (10°C) (i.e., at the end of the winter season). To avoid accidentally turning the cable on, unplug it. VIII. REMOVING THE CABLE The deicing cable must be removed prior to replacing roof shingles or starting roof repair. Other roof alterations, such as additions of antennae, flag poles, etc. in the area of the cable may require removal of the cable. Cable may also require removal for adjustment. To remove cable, wait for weather conditions to allow. Then, unplug the cable. Open the clips with pliers and remove the cable. Take care when removing cable from a downspout to avoid snagging or cutting the cable on sharp edges. Inspect the entire cable before replacing it on the roof. If cable is in good condition (no evidence of cuts, brittleness, charring, cracking, discolored surfaces, bare wires, or other damage), it may be replaced on the roof, according to the instructions. If a replacement deicing kit is purchased, use only the new clips provided with it. Do not reuse the clips from the previous kit. The new cable may not be designed for use with the old clips. If the old clips are used, the cable may be inadequately secured or may be damaged. Note that other models of deicing cable may have different methods of removal. Follow the instructions provided with those cables. ADKS Owners Manual 19 IX. LIMITED WARRANTY The manufacturer of this product warrants to the original purchaser that the product will be free from defects in materials or workmanship for a period of two (2) years from the date of purchase. Any product that proves defective in material or workmanship may be returned, with proof of purchase to Easy Heat Warranty Department, 31977 US 20 E, New Carlisle IN 46552. Buyer is responsible for all costs incurred in the removal and reinstallation of the product, and must prepay shipment to the manufacturer. Manufacturer, or its authorized agent, will replace the product at no charge and pay the return shipping costs to the buyer. Any implied warranty of merchantability or fitness for particular purpose that may arise in connection with the sale of this product shall be limited in duration to two (2) years from the date of purchase. Manufacturer shall not be liable for loss of time, inconvenience, commercial loss, consequential or incidental damages. Some states and/or provinces do not allow limitations on the length of time an implied warranty will last, and do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental and/or consequential damages. Thus, the above limitations or exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty is expressly in lieu of all other written or other warranties. ADKS Owners Manual 20