User manual NUTONE VX1000

BUILT-IN CENTRAL CLEANING SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS For Power Unit Models VX475, VX550, VX1000 VX475C, VX550C, VX1000C TABLE OF CONTENTS SYSTEM PLANNING AND LAYOUT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3-4 Examples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 Locating the Power Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Tubing and Wall Inlet Locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 GENERAL INSTALLATION GUIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-6 Tool Listing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Working with Plastic Tubing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5-6 INSTALLATION IN NEW CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-11 Wall Inlet Rough-In . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Installing the Tubing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Wall Inlet Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Models CI370 & 360 Wall Inlets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Model 330 Wall Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Model CI395RK Electrified Wall Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Model CI358 Electrified Wall Inlet & Rough-In . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 C1358 SUPERVALVETM Wall Inlet & Rough-In Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12-19 Locating Access Keys in Existing Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Avoiding In-Wall Obstacles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Installing Inlet Tubing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13-15 Wall Inlet Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15-18 Models CI370 & 360 Wall Inlets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18-19 Model 330 & CI335 Wall Inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Floor Inlet Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Vac Pan & Vac Sweep Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21-25 ASSEMBLING THE TUBING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26-30 POWER UNIT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31-33 Mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Tubing Connections at Power Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Dimensional Chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 FINAL SYSTEM CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36-37 2 SYSTEM PLANNING AND LAYOUT The NuTone Central Cleaning System consists of a Power Unit, PVC Tubing and Fittings, Wall Inlets, a flexible Hose and various cleaning Attachments. The Power Unit is designed to be wall-mounted away from the living area of the home and connected to the living area by means of permanently installed in-wall tubing, fittings and inlets. Generally, an installation will require 3 to 4 inlets and 16 to 20 feet of tubing per inlet. It is suggested that a floor plan be used to more accurately determine the quantity of materials needed. Use the following examples as an aid in planning the installation in either new or existing construction. You should be able to adapt the examples shown to your specific home layout. THE RANCH STYLE HOUSE Here the power unit is mounted in the garage. The intake and exhaust tubing, the only exposed tubing in the installation, runs up the garage wall and into the attic. The trunk line runs horizontally through the attic from the power unit to the farthest inlet location. Branch lines spread throughout the attic, connecting the trunk line to the inlet tubing. Each inlet tube is threaded vertically through an inside wall. Located in hallways, and in large rooms, the inlets are placed to provide maximum access to all cleaning areas. See Figure 1. FIGURE 1 THE TWO-STORY HOUSE A double-trunk line system is commonly used in twostory houses. In the installation shown at left, the power unit is mounted in the basement. The intake tubing runs up the basement wall and connects to the main trunk line, which runs along the unfinished basement ceiling. Two first-floor inlets are connected to the basement trunk line by vertical inlet lines run through interior walls. In the center of the house, a vertical branch line runs from the basement trunk line, through stacked closets, up into the attic. A second trunk line runs across the attic and two branch lines connect to inlet lines which are dropped down through upstairs interior walls. See Figure 2. FIGURE 2 3 THE SPLIT-LEVEL HOUSE Like the two-story house, the split level installation commonly calls for a two-level trunk line. Here, the power unit is located in the garage. The intake tubing runs exposed up the garage wall and into the ground level section's attic. Two branch lines connect this part of the trunk line to inlet lines which are dropped inside interior walls. A vertical branch line runs to the upstairs attic, where the trunk line branches into a T-shape. This trunk line connects to two upstairs inlet lines and to one inlet line which drops through an upstairs wall and down into the third-level utility room to service this entire level. See Figure 3. FIGURE 3 LOCATING THE POWER UNIT · Locate the power unit at the lowest possible position away from the general living area in an accessible location for changing the filter bag or debris bucket. When planning, remember the power unit is equipped with an inlet to service a garage, basement, utility room, etc., wherever it is located. Locate the power unit within six feet of a grounded electrical outlet. The VX475 and VX550 power units require a 120v 20 amp AC power source. The VX1000 power units require a 240vAC, 15 amp circuit with a NEMA 6-15R receptacle. Do not locate the power unit close to a source of extreme heat (i.e., water heater) or in an area with a high ambient temperature (i.e., attic, furnace room). If the power unit is located in a closet or a small utility room, make sure the area is well-ventilated (i.e., with door louvers). Exhausting the power unit to the outside is recommended for optimal performance. The exhaust should not be vented into a wall, a ceiling or a concealed space in the house. The exhaust line should be vented outside the home using a Model 393 or CI330 wall caps. TUBING AND WALL INLET LOCATIONS 1. Locate inlets on interior walls, choosing central locations which allow several rooms to be cleaned from a single inlet using a 30 foot long hose. 2. The tubing installation should consist of a main trunk line running from the farthest wall inlet to the power unit location, with branch lines running to each additional inlet. Keep all tubing lines as straight as possible and use as few fittings as possible. 3. Beginning at the area farthest from the power unit, choose a tentative inlet location. Measure 30 feet from the proposed inlet location to the farthest corner of the rooms to be cleaned by that inlet to determine if inlet location is proper. If working from blueprints (or building plans drawn at 1/4" = 1 ft. scale), use a 7 1/2" chain as your guide to determine inlet locations. 4. Locate inlets within six feet of an electrical receptacle to allow use of optional current-carrying hose. 5. Be sure inlets will not be blocked by doors or furniture 6. Be sure inlets will not interfere with electrical, plumbing or other mechanical installations. 7. Move tentative inlet location if necessary. Use the same procedure to determine each additional inlet location, always working toward the power unit. · · · · · 4 GENERAL INSTALLATION GUIDE TOOL LISTING Depending on your installation, you may require the use of these tools. The power tools are recommended to make your installation proceed quickly. · · · · · Wire strippers Utility Knife Knife 2 1/2"Hole Saw 1/2" Drill · · · · · 1/4" Drill Putty Knife Hammer Keyhole Saw Cold Chisel · · · · · Level Drill Bit Screwdriver Wrench Tape Measurer · · · · Flashlight Electrical Tape Safety Glasses Hacksaw WORKING WITH PLASTIC TUBING Cutting the Tubing Before you cut a length of tube, accurately measure the length you need. Allow 5/8" of tubing for inserting into fittings and 1 1/2" for placing into flexible tubing. Cut the plastic tubing with a hacksaw, making sure that the cut is exactly square. (You can use a tube cutter if one is available.) Use wire cutters or tin snips to cut flexible tubing. The 8" lengths of flexible tubing supplied with each inlet should not be cut. See Figure 4. FIGURE 5 Next, use a file to slightly bevel the outside of the tube so that it will easily slide into the fitting. Use steel wool or a light grained sandpaper to buff the surface of the tube which will be glued. This will clean the tube and assure a good seal. See Figure 6. FIGURE 4 Use a small knife to remove any burrs from the inside of the tube. You can also use steel wool to remove burrs. The burrs must be removed or they may impede air flow of form clogs by snagging hair and carpet thread. See Figure 5. FIGURE 6 5 Making A Joint Insert The tube into the fitting, aligning the two parts as they will be installed. Mark the tube and the fitting so that you can quickly realign the joint. See Figure 7. Cementing Flexible Tubing Make sure the ends of the flexible tubing are even - trim if necessary. When you join flexible tubing to plastic tubing or to an inlet mounting plate, apply cement to both the inside of the flexible tubing and the outside of the plastic tubing or mounting plate tubing ring. Twist the two pieces as you join them to evenly spread the glue. Allow five minutes for the cement to set in flexible tubing. You may also use electrical tape or duct tape to further seal the joint. Secure Wire To Tubing The low-voltage power wiring is run along with the tubing. To make that the wire is secure and will not hangup in a wall, use electrical tape to attach the wire to the tubing. Tape the wire approximately every 12-18 inches. See Figure 9. FIGURE 7 Apply cement only to the outside of the tube. Dab the cement generously in an inch-wide band. Insert the tube into the fitting with the alignment marks a quarter turn apart, and then quickly push and turn the fitting to align the marks and spread the cement. Allow one minute for the joint to dry. You may also use electrical tape or duct tape to further seal the joint. See Figure 8. FIGURE 9 FIGURE 8 6 INSTALLATION IN NEW CONSTRUCTION WALL INLET ROUGH-IN Once the locations for wall inlets have been determined, mount all inlet brackets. 1. Choose the appropriate mounting bracket for the inlet being installed. (See chart.) 395 330 360 CI335 CI358 CI370 CI390 CI395 CI398 X 396-1 X 396-3 X X Rough-In and Wall Valve Sold Together X X X X X X X X X X Rough-In Series CI3301RK CI3303RK CF329 X X X CF361 X CF361F X CI395RK 2. To locate bracket on wall stud, measure approximately 18" up from finished floor level. (Height may vary according to individual preference.) MODEL CF361 & CF361F (For use with CI370 and 360 INLETS) 3. Refer to Figure 10. Nail bracket to side of stud so that front edge of bracket is flush to front of stud. (The bracket may also be nailed to the front edge of the stud. See face mounting illustrated. For face mounting, use locating tabs on bracket for proper alignment.) FIGURE 11 4. Refer to Figure 11. Remove cardboard from plaster guard frame. Using four (4) provided screws, attach the appropriate flanged fitting and inlet seal to back of inlet. 5. Replace cardboard in plaster guard frame. MODEL CF329 (For use with 330 INLETS) 6. When using Model CF329, glue elbow to mounting plate. Attach to stud as shown in Figure 12. FIGURE 10 FIGURE 12 7 INSTALLING THE TUBING Use the following installation guidelines when installing tubing. 1. Start tubing installation at farthest inlet and work toward the power unit. 2. Tubing run to the power unit should be as straight as possible. 3. When assembling sections with elbows and tees, make sure the curve in the fitting is aligned so that the air flows toward the power unit. 4. Branch lines should always join the trunk line from above or from the same level. Never join a branch line from an angle below the trunk line. 5. Refer to Figure 25 page (9). Run low voltage wiring (Model 376UL) and secure wiring to tubing as tubing is installed. Model CF380 Pipe Support can be used to support long runs of tubing (position near joists) and to clip wire along tubing. Secure tubing to joists or studs. Leave approximately 6" of wire for connection to each inlet. 6. Cut a 2 1/2" diameter hole in sole plate, header or stud directly in line with opening of inlet bracket fitting. FIGURE 13 FIGURE 14 Note Figure 13 for center line dimensions. 7. Refer to Figure 14. Measure length of tubing needed to connect inlet to trunk line. Allow approximately 3/4" of tubing for inserting into fittings. 8. Refer to Figure 15. Cut tubing, keeping cut square. 9. Refer to Figure 16. Remove burrs from both inside and outside of tubing. 10. Before cementing, pre-assemble section to inlet fitting, check for proper length. 11. Refer to Figure 17. Apply PVC cement (Model 379) to outside of tubing. Coat tubing approximately 1" back. Take care to keep cement from inside of tube. 12. Refer to Figure 18. Insert tubing into fitting with a twisting motion to evenly spread cement. Be sure tubing is firmly seated in fitting. 13. If fittings have been attached to tubing at the end opposite the inlet bracket, be sure alignment is proper before cement sets. 14. Refer to Figure 19. Tape wire to tubing to hold in place and insert through hole in inlet bracket. 15. Connect each inlet line and branch line into main trunk line. Complete low voltage wiring as main trunk line is continued back to power unit. FIGURE 15 FIGURE 16 FIGURE 17 FIGURE 18 Caution: When tubing is run through the wall stud, sole plate, headers - or anywhere that building materials will be attached - place a nail plate (Model 378) over that area (on both sides if necessary) to prevent nails from piercing tubing. FIGURE 19 8 WALL INLET INSTALLATION MODEL CI370 WALL INLET (CF361 and CF361F Rough-In) 1. Remove the cardboard plaster guard. 2. Refer to Figure 14. For some drywall or panel construction, the plaster frame will extend beyond the finished wall. In this case, remove plaster frame from mounting bracket by removing mounting screws. NOTE: When using the Model CF361 and CF361F inlet bracket on walls thinner than 1/2", use a 1/4" spacer (not furnished) between the wall and the inlet bracket. See Figure 17. Spacer may be made from plywood, MasoniteTM, etc. Contact cement may be used to hold spacer in place during assembly. Configuration of spacer may vary depending upon installation. 3. Refer to Figure 15. Connect the red striped wire of the 2-conductor low voltage cable to the unused terminal screw on the inlet. Connect the remaining wire to the black pigtail wire. Cap off both wires using wire nut (supplied). FIGURE 20 FIGURE 21 FIGURE 22 NOTE: The LED indicator light used in the CI370 is polarity sensitive. If the 2-conductor cable used to connect the inlet to the power unit does not have a polarity marking and the CI370 is wired backwards, no damage will result; however, the indicator will light RED instead of GREEN when the hose is inserted into the inlet. To correct this condition, simply reverse the 2-conductor connections at the CI370 inlet. 4. Guide excess wire back through the hole in inlet bracket and flanged fitting 5. Refer to Figure 16. Place inlet into mounting bracket and secure. FIGURE 23 NOTE: when wall inlets are installed in walls that are less than 1/2" thick or when inlets are installed back-to-back in a wall, the tube of the wall inlet may extend into elbow area of the flanged fitting and cause blockage. Shorten the wall inlet tube to prevent this condition. Refer to Figure18. For extra thick walls, use Model 399 Extension Sleeve to connect inlet to the flanged fitting. MODEL 360 WALL INLET (CF361 and CF361F R o u g h - i n ) 1. Follow steps 1-2 as above. 2. Refer to Figure 19 Connect 2-conductor low voltage wire to terminal screws on back of wall inlet. 3. Follow steps 4-5 as above. FIGURE 24 MODEL 330 WALL INLET (CF329 Rough-in) See Figure 20. 1. Connect 2-conductor low voltage wire to terminal screws on back of wall inlet. 2. Align inlet mounting holes with holes in mounting plate. 3. Place inlet into mounting plate and secure with two provided screws. FIGURE 25 9 FIGURE 26 CI390 & CI395 ELECTRAVALVETM ELECTRIFIED INLET INSTALLATION (CI395RK Rough-In) (Not available in Canada) 1. See Figure 27. Fasten the mounting plate to a stud within three studs (48") of an electrical outlet box. Measure and mark the wire 10" from the plug (A). Feed the wire through the top hole in the mounting plate (just above the circular opening). Snap the molded plug into the mounting plate as pictured (B). This will keep it secure and out of harm's way during drywalling and finishing. Line up the wire at the previously measured 10" mark with the strain of relief channel on the back of the mounting plate. Secure it in place with the supplied wire tie (C). 2. Run the inlet wire to the adjacent electric box. If you must run wire through a stud, drill directly through the center of the stud (D). 3. See Figure 28. Place the exposed ends of the two wires into the electrical box through a strain relief channel (E). Tighten the strain relief channel (do not overtighten) on the white sheathing leaving 1/2" of this sheathing exposed inside of the outlet box. Fold the 6" of black and white wire into the outlet box. Leave the wires to be connected by the electrician when plug receptacles are being installed. (Attention: Power tools such as routers are not recommended for use with the inlet installation, as removal of drywall with these devices may cause damage to the mounting plate and/or inlet plug). 4. Once drywall and finishing processes have been completed, remove molded plug from mounting plate (with the aid of a slot screwdriver) and snap it into the wing slot at the back of the inlet (F). (Please note: molded plug fits one way only, with the narrow opening at the top). Insert inlet into the mounting plate and secure inlet to mounting plate with screws provided. FIGURE 27 NOTE: All electrical devices such as the electrified inlet should be reported to the construction electrician for listing on the inspection report for building inspection purposes. NOTE: Plumb inlet to tubing using NuTone Model CF382S 90° Ell fitting. NOTE: All location and installation direct connect electrified wall valves must conform with all local and municipal building codes. FIGURE 28 10 C1358 SUPERVALVETM WALL INLET & ROUGH-IN KIT See Figure 29 FIGURE 29 SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR HOUSEHOLD USE ONLY. INSTALL ONLY ON A NOMINAL 120v, 60Hz, 7A SUPPLY PROTECTED BY A MAXIMUM 15A OVERCURRENT PROTECTIVE DEVICE. THE PIN CONNECTOR ON THIS Type A WALL VALVE IS INTENDED FOR USE ON A NOMINAL 120V, 60Hz, 7A SUPPLY ONLY. IT IS REQUIRED TO BE WIRED BY A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN and IS REQUIRED TO CONFIRM TO LOCAL ELECTRICAL CODES. WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE HOSES ON WET SURFACES! New Construction 1. Install BUILDING WIRE CONDUCTORS (1) through the approved type electrical CONNECTOR (2) (supplied) until they protrude approximately six inches from connector. Seat connector firmly into the opening atop the WIRING COMPARTMENT (4). Insert and secure LOCKING TAB (3). 2. Splice wires from INLET VALVE RECEPTACLE (7) to the protruding building wire conductors with #31 TWIST-ON WIRE CONNECTORS (8) (not supplied). NOTE: White wire to white wire & black wire to black wire . 3. Feed LOW VOLTAGE RELAY WIRES (5) through opening in the LVT COVER PLATE (6) and connect to the two contact screws of INLET VALVE FACE PLATE (9). 4. Push Inlet Valve face plate (10) into MOUNTING PLATE (11). At the same time, push ELECTRICAL CONDUCTORS (12) and connectors (8) into WIRING COMPARTMENT (4). Back out the two screws that hold the wiring compartment in place. Slip upper FINISHED WALL CLIP (13) under the screw \ heads and tightly fasten both wiring compartment and upper finished-wall clip (13) with MOUNTING SCREWS (supplied). 5. Install the lower FINISHED WALL CLIP (14) with screws (supplied). 6. Secure Inlet Valve face plate (10) to mounting plate (11) using the two supplied color matched SCREWS (15). # LR 61865 # 27Z2 Finished Construction After pipe, low voltage relay control wire, electrical building wires and opening in wall has been cut: 1. Remove mounting plate NAILING FLANGE (16). Use a hack saw or score with razor knife along dotted line and snap off. 2. Repeat step one (from NEW CONSTRUCTION). 3. Install modified mounting plate with short 90° ELL glued in position into wall opening. 4. Repeat steps 2 - 6 (from NEW CONSTRUCTION). 11 INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION Locating Access Keys in Existing Construction Unless your home is a ranch-style house where a single trunk line can run directly through the attic or basement, you should first investigate your house to find the key to running your tubing from level to level. Look for an accessible area free from obstructions that will accommodate the 2" tubing. If you understand how your existing home is constructed, it can be relatively easy to find access routes to run the tubing. Refer again to the illustration on page 2 as you consider your home construction. Some of the keys you might find in your home are illustrated here. FIGURE 30 Stacked Closets or Laundry Chute Many homes will have an upstairs closet located directly above a downstairs closet. It is easy to run the tubing from one floor level to another inside these stacked closets. In these installations the tubing is often left exposed inside the closets. See Figure 30. A laundry chute could also provide access from basement to upper floors. You may also want to consider running exposed tubing through cabinets or cupboards. Cold-Air Return A cold-air return often provides a straight run from basement to other levels of the house. See Figure 31. The ductwork is easily cut for access. Seal around the tube when completing the installation. Use the following procedures for installation in existing construction. Wall inlets in existing construction may be accessed from below (basement or crawl space) or from above (attic). Instructions apply to either method. Starting from farthest wall inlet location, install each inlet as described below. Working back toward power unit, connect each inlet line and branch line into main trunk line. See page tbd. Complete low voltage wiring as main trunk line is continued back to power unit. Mount power unit and complete wiring. See page 8. FIGURE 31 Exterior Walls. The insulation in these walls will prevent you from running tubing through them. Electrical Wiring. Wiring may not obstruct your tubing, but you should always make sure that tubing does not damage the wiring. Electrical outlets and wall switches are signs of wiring. Ductwork. Avoid choosing a section of wall that contains ducting. If you see signs of ductwork-- such as floor or ceiling registers--move your inlet location to another section of the wall. Plumbing. Plumbing may or may not prevent you from running tubing through a wall. If you must choose a plumbing wall for an inlet location, be extremely careful when making a cutout in the wall. Avoiding In-Wall Obstacles The tubing which connects the inlet into the trunk line is threaded through interior partition walls. After you've chosen an inlet location, make sure the wall doesn't contain some hidden obstacle which will prevent you from running tubing to the inlet. Wall Studs. Make sure your location is between wall studs. Locate studs by tapping walls, looking for electrical outlet (usually fastened to studs), or noticing finishing nails in the floor molding. Studs 12 Installing the Inlet Tubing When your planning is complete, you will have to determine where all the inlets and the power unit will be located. You have also mapped out the location of your trunk line and found the access you need to run vertical tubing from one level of your house to another level, You should have acquainted yourself with the methods of joining plastic tubing and acquired the tools you'll need to install your NuTone Central Vacuum System. Now, you can begin installation. The first step to install the inlet tubing which connects the wall inlets to the branch lines. As explained before, the inlet lines run inside interior walls. You will find access to these walls through your attic or basement. Briefly, you want to find the exact location in the wall, drill an access hole through the wall plate or header, and insert the tubing into the wall cavity. This part of your installation requires close observation and careful measurements. Take your time and make sure you accurately line up your access holes with the locations you've chosen for your wall inlets. Locating Basement Access Holes To locate access holes in the basement, remove the toe molding or baseboard at the base of the inlet wall. Carefully loosen the molding or baseboard by inserting the blade of a putty knife behind it. Force another putty knife between the first knife and the baseboard or wall. Gently hammer a cold chisel between the two knife blades, prying the loosened molding away from the baseboard or the baseboard away from the wall. Locating Attic Access Holes Drill the access holes directly above the inlet location. To accurately locate the access hole, you must find the space between wall studs where the inlet is to be located. Observe the are around the inlet location. Look for references you might be able to find in the attic: electrical wiring, ductwork, doorways, etc. Measure and note the distance from these references to the inlet location. Enter the attic and find the inlet wall. Have a helper downstairs knock on the top of the wall right above the inlet location; locate the general area by following the sound. Most likely, you will have to clear away insulation. Ask your helper to continue knocking until you locate the area between wall studs directly above the inlet location. Next, measure the thickness of the wall. Mark the exact center of the wall where you will drill the access hole. Remember that the access hole must be placed exactly in the center of the wall. Directly below the inlet location, drill a 1/16" reference hole through the floor into the basement. (If you're drilling through carpet, use an awl to slightly open the weave. This will keep the carpet from wrapping itself around the drill bit.) Insert a piece of scrap wire or a clothes hanger into the reference hole so you can easily find the hole in the basement. Once you've found the location in the partition wall, you must center the access hole in the middle of the wall. Measure half the thickness of the wall and mark the center of the wall where you will drill the access hole. If you cannot see the plate, you can determine this measurement from upstairs. At the nearest doorway, measure the thickness of the wall, including the baseboard. In the basement measure a distance equal to half the thickness of the wall, using the reference hole as a starting point. 13 Drilling The Access Holes Once you are certain that you've located the center of the wall directly above the inlet location, use a 2 1/2" hole saw to cut the access hole through the wall plate or header and into the wall cavity. (A 1/2" drill is recommended.) Carefully remove the drill from the hole. Cut a piece of low voltage wire which is long enough for the complete inlet line, allowing 6" for connections to the inlet wall plate. Secure the wire to the tubing with electrical tape. Now, use a flashlight to inspect the wall cavity through the access hole. Make sure no hidden obstacles will interfere with the tube installation. (If this inspection reveals an obstacle, find a new inlet location.) Repeat this procedure in your attic or basement until your access holes are drilled. Tuck the 6" wire lead inside the flexible tubing so that it will not snag inside the wall. If space permits, you can assemble the entire inlet line by joining two sections of tubing with a stop coupling before dropping the assembly into the access hole. (Remember to only glue the outside of the tubing when joining two pieces of PVC tubing.) Oftentimes, tight attic spaces require you to begin your drop and then join the second section of tubing, Of course, the order of assembly, and the length of tubing required, depend on your attic space and your wall height. Assembling The Inlet Tubing Once you've drilled the access holes, you assemble the inlet tubing and insert it into the wall cavity. Refer to "Working With Plastic Tubing" before you begin to assemble the inlet lines. Select a section of plastic tubing and an 8" section of the flexible inlet tubing. Apply cement to the outside of the plastic tubing and to the inside of the flexible tubing. Join the two pieces together and allow five minutes for them to dry. 14 Wall Inlet Installation The wall inlet design allows you to work outside the wall - where assembly is easy and all the parts you need are accessible. First, you make a cutout into in the wall and locate the flexible tubing attached to the inlet line which you previously threaded into the wall. Then, you attach the flexible tubing to the inlet mounting plate, assemble the other inlet parts, and make the wiring connections. You place the inlet assembly into the wall cutout, sandwiching the wall between the inner and outer parts, and secure the inlet tightly to the wall with two screws. Assemble and install the wall inlet as shown in the illustrations and as explained in the next few pages. Be careful and patient as you make your first cutout and install your first inlet-following the procedure step by step - and the other inlets will be easy to install in very little time. Whatever the case, insert the completed inlet line into the access hole and thread it down inside the wall. The inlet line should be long enough so that it extends above the joists in the attic; at this height, it can be easily connected to the branch and truck lines. When cutting the the inlet tubing to length, remember that your inlet will be placed 18" above the floor. Making The Wall Inlet Cutout The wall inlet should be located 18" on-center from the floor and directly in line with the attic or basement inlet tubing hole you have already drilled in the wall plate or header. the wall inlet cutout must be exactly 3 7/8" high by 2 7/8" wide. It is crucial that you make an accurate cutout, and we have supplied a template to help you. Place the template against the wall so that it is 18" on-center from the floor. Use a level along the top edge of the template. to make sure it is square to the wall. Mark your wall for the cutout by tracing around the inside of the template. Then use your pencil to mark the screw hole locations through punched holes at the top and bottom of the template. Remove the template from the wall. For a basement installation, assemble the tubing to the inlet flexible tubing in the same way and insert it into the access hole. A basement inlet line is necessarily shorter because it must only reach 18" from the floor to the inlet. Most of the time, Basement inlet lines are more easily installed by two people after the inlet hole has been cut in the interior wall. See "Installing The Wall Inlet." Complete all your inlet lines, and then proceed to your inlet installations. 15 Use an awl or icepick to punch pilot holes where you marked the two hole locations. Now, drill two 3/8" diameter holes, using the pilot holes as the centers. Take care to locate and drill these holes exactly as marked with the template. Attaching The Inlet Mounting Plate Reach through the inlet hole and locate the inlet tubing. Raise it up inside the wall until you locate the inlet tubing. If the inlet is connected from the basement, have a helper insert the inlet tubing into the access hole until you can see the flexible tubing. Then, pull the flexible tubing through the inlet hole and remove the low voltage wiring from inside the tube. If the end of the flexible tubing is not even, trim it so that it is exactly even. Also drill four pilot holes in the four corners of the marked area. Make sure these holes are located inside the marked line. Then, using a utility knife, score along the inside of the marked line. For plaster walls, score the plaster deeply, being careful to stay inside the marked line. Now, remove the nail flange (used for new construction) from the inlet mounting plate. Use pliers to bend this flange along the scored lines until you can break it off. Next, use a keyhole saw or a sabersaw to make the cutout. Again, be extremely careful to cut along the inside of the marked line. Caution: When cutting into plaster walls, make sure the plaster is firm and secure around the cutout area. Apply cement to both the inside of the flexible tubing and to the outside of the mounting plate's tube ring. Insert the mounting plate's tube ring in the flexible tubing and twisting the pieces as you join them to spread the cement, and align the mounting plate in a vertical position. 16 Hold the assembly in a place for a few minutes as the cement sets; allow five minutes for the cement to completely dry. Installing The Inlet When you place the inlet into the wall cutout, the mounting plate and tube guard slip inside the wall; the inlet cover remains on the outside. Holding the inlet assembly between your thumbs and fingers, angle the bottom of the mounting plate into the cutout. Push the assembly downward until you have clearance at the top of the cutout. Push the top of the mounting plate into the cutout and lift the assembly upward until the top screw seats in the predrilled hole. At this point, the wall should be sandwiched between the mounting plate and the frame plate. Now, strip the ends of the two low voltage wires, and then connect the wires to the screw terminals on the back of the inlet cover. Make sure the wires are tightly secured under the terminal screws. When the wiring is complete, assemble the inlet cover to the tube guard and mounting plate. Insert the top screw through the entire inlet assembly until the screw engages the mounting plate. Completing The Inlet Assembly Once you have attached the mounting plate to the flexible tubing, pull the low voltage wire through the top wiring hole in the mounting plate. 17 Insert the bottom screw into the inlet cover and through the other parts. Give the screw a few turns until it firmly engages in the mounting plate. Now, level and slightly lower the assembly. Make sure the wall is sandwiched between the inner and outer parts ­ you'll be able to feel if mounting plate is firmly centered on the inside of the wall. Hold the inlet in place and gradually tighten down each screw a little bit at a time. (If you completely tighten down one screw at a time, the mounting plate may pull away from the wall at the loose end and slip back into the cutout.) MODEL CI370 or 360 SERIES INLETS (CF361 or CF361F Rough-In) NOTE: If 330 Wall Inlet is being used refer to Model 330 Wall Inlet Installation on next page. 1. If area is clear, cut an inlet opening in the wall approximately 18" above the floor. Make sure wall opening and 2 1/2" tube hole line up (Figure 32). FIGURE 32 NOTE: If the wall for mounting the Model 360 inlet is less than 1/2", a spacer must be used. See Figure 26 on page 8 as a guide. 2. Cut a length of tubing that will extend from inlet opening to a point below floor level (or above ceiling level in attic installation). Tape low voltage wire to tube and insert tube through predrilled hole to a level opposite the wall opening. Complete all your wall inlet installations in this manner. If your cutouts are accurate, each wall inlet will install more quickly and easily. 3. Apply cement to tube and install flanged wall fitting. Make sure fitting is well seated and sealed (Figure 33). 4. Remove plaster frame from mounting bracket. Pull low voltage wire through hole in bracket and insert bracket into cutout. Secure bracket to flanged fitting with four screws provided. Be sure seal is secure between flange fitting and mounting bracket (Figure 34). FIGURE 33 18 MODEL 330 & CI335 Series WALL INLET Installation (CF329 Rough-in) FIGURE 34 5. Attach the low voltage wires to terminal screws on back of wall inlet (Figure 35). If using 361 Rough-in with CI370 Series Inlets, refer to instructions on page 6, step 3, shown in Figure 18. FIGURE 37 FIGURE 38 FIGURE 39 FIGURE 40 1. Make cutout according to dimensions in Figure 37. 2. Refer to Figure 38. Break off nail plate at scored line. FIGURE 35 6. Insert wall inlet into bracket and secure with the two screws provided (Figure 36). 3. Refer to Figure 39. Glue elbow to mounting plate, place assembly into cutout, and attach elbow to tubing inside the wall. 4. Make sure mounting holes are exactly at top and bottom. 5. Connect 2-conductor low voltage wire to terminal screws on back of wall inlet. 6. Refer to Figure 40. Align inlet mounting holes with mounting plate holes, place inlet into mounting plate, and secure with provided screws. NOTE: If CF382S shorter radius elbow is used, it may be necessary to use the short mounting screw to avoid interference with elbow. FIGURE 36 19 Floor Inlet Installation in New & Existing Construction MODEL CI370 or 360 SERIES INLETS (361 Rough-in) 1. Refer to Figures 41 and 42. After floor inlet location has been selected, cut a 3 1/16" x 2 9/16" square hole in floor. Center line of inlet must be located at least 2 1/2" from wall to allow cover to be opened when hose is inserted. 2. Determine direction of tubing and attach appropriate flanged fitting to mounting bracket with four (4) screws supplied. Be sure mounting bracket flange does not interfere with tubing and seal is securely in place. 3. Refer to Figure 43. Position bracket with frame and flanged fitting assembly into cutout from below and secure to sub floor. 4. Refer to Figure 44. Large end of Model 399 extension sleeve should be cut to length to allow proper seating of inlet against floor or carpet. 5. Refer to Figure 45. Pull low-voltage 2-conductor wire through mounting bracket and attach to terminal screws on back of floor inlet. Cement extension sleeve to Model CI370 or 360 inlet. Insert extension sleeve through vinyl gasket in mounting bracket and firmly seat into flanged fitting. 6. For convenience of operation, floor inlet should be installed to open back toward wall. 7. Refer to Figure 43. Secure floor inlet in place with two screws. FIGURE 43 FIGURE 41 FIGURE 44 FIGURE 42 FIGURE 45 20