Welcome to This workbook is designed to teach basic and advanced sewing techniques that you can achieve with your sewing machine. You will need your manual to provide the exact settings for your particular machine model. The difficulty or skill level required for each technique is rated by this symbol: "Two spools" indicate a more difficult technique. These techniques require more practice to master than others. The most important thing to remember is that sewing is a creative art--there are very few absolutes. So have fun as you learn these exciting techniques! Singer is a registered trademark of the Singer Company Limited. © 2003 Singer Sewing Company. All rights reserved. Part # 640--505255OFC Straight Stitching Straight Stitch for Topstitching Create Quilted Fabric Speed Basting Making Piping Attaching Purchased Piping Centered Zippers Satin Stitch Applique Lace Insertion Couching a Strand of Pearls Button Sewing Four-Step Buttonholes Four-Step Corded Buttonholes Free-Motion Monogramming Free-Motion Embroidery Blind Hem Attaching Beaded Trims Mending with Multi-Stitch Zigzag Crazy Quilting Straight Stretch Stitch for Woven Fabrics Straight Stretch Stitch for Stretch Fabrics Ribbing Application Overedge Stitching Open Seams with Overedge Stitching Attaching Elastic Sewing with a Wing Needle Twin Needle Sewing 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 9 11 13 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 Applying Ribbon with a Twin Needle Sewing on Leather Narrow Hem Gathering with the Cording Foot Applying Trims, Cords & Braids Shirring with the Gathering Foot Using the Even Feed Foot to Sew Multiple Fabric Layers Using the Even Feed Foot to Sew Plaid Fabrics Using the Even Feed Foot to Sew Pile Fabrics Sewing with the Side Cutter Sewing with the Ruffler 37 38 39 40 41 42 44 45 46 47 49 Straight Stitching The Straight Stitch is generally used to join seams or do topstitching. It is the most basic of the stitches and is the most commonly used. For a longer stitch or for thicker fabrics, lengthen the stitch using the Stitch Length Dial. Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Presser Foot: Needle Position: Straight Stitch 0, no width 3-4 Standard Foot Center Materials: (2) 4" x 4" pieces of cotton, right sides together Procedure: Place fabrics under the foot, matching the raw edges with the 5/8" seam guide. Sew the length of the fabric. Use the Reverse Lever to reinforce the seam. 1 Straight Stitch for Topstitching The Straight Stitch can be sewn "on top" of the fabric so that the stitches are visible. This is different from using the straight stitch to join a seam hidden inside the project. A topstitch provides a decorative touch while holding the seam allowances flat. It is also sturdy and durable. Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Presser Foot: Needle Position: Straight Stitch 0, no width 3-4 Standard Foot Center Materials: (2) 5" x 5" pieces of cotton with batting between the two fabrics, creating a quilt-type sample Procedure: Sew diagonally from the top left corner to the bottom right corner. Use the Reverse Lever to reinforce the seam. 2 Create Quilted Fabric Create your own quilted fabric with the Straight Stitch and the Seam/Quilt Guide. This attachment is great when sewing large projects that cover the machine's seam guides. Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Presser Foot: Needle Position: Straight Stitch 0, no width 3-4 Standard Foot Centered Materials: Quilt-type sample that was previously used on the "Straight Stitch for Topstitching" page Procedure: Use the guide to ensure even spacing and straight lines when large projects cover the machine's seam guides. Position fabric approximately 1-2 inches to the right of the previously sewn straight stitch. Position the guide so that it rides on the previous row of stitching. Sew successive rows using the guide. Change the direction, sew diagonally from the top right corner to the bottom left corner. Sew 3 or more rows, using the guide. *Depending on model, the Seam/Quilt Guide might be optional. Check the instruction manual. 3 Speed Basting Basting is used to temporarily hold fabrics together. Stitch length and tension are adjusted to create a looser stitch. This stitch can easily be removed with a seam ripper or simply pulled out. Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Presser Foot: Tension: Needle Position: Straight Stitch 0, no width 5 Standard Foot Adjust the tension setting to a smaller number Center Materials: (2) 4" x 4" pieces of cotton, right sides together Procedure: Place under the foot, matching the raw edges with the 5/8" seam guide. Sew the length of the fabric. Use the seam ripper to remove a portion of the basting or simply pull the bobbin thread to completely remove basting. 4 Making Piping Piping adds a beautiful finish to projects such as pillows, sleeve edges, collars and more. The design of the Zipper Foot allows for the needle to stitch very closely to the edge of the foot. This is important when inserting zippers, applying piping or when topstitching close to the fabric's edge. Only the Straight Stitch can be used when sewing with the Zipper Foot. Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Presser Foot: Needle Position: Straight Stitch 0, no width 3-4 Zipper Foot Center Materials: 5" x 6" home décor fabric 7" piping cord Procedure: Fold fabric, wrong sides together. Place piping inside of the fold. On the right side of the fabric, sew a straight stitch close to the piping. Note: The Zipper Foot can be attached right or left, allowing for the piping to be inserted from either side. 5 Attaching Purchased Piping Attach pre-packaged piping to make a bold finish on home decorating projects, crafts or garments. Machine Set-up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Presser Foot: Needle Position: Straight Stitch 0, no width 3-4 Zipper Foot Center Materials: (2) 3" x 6" pieces of home décor fabric 7" pre-packaged piping Procedure: Place fabric right sides together. Place piping between the fabrics, matching the piping's raw edge with the fabric's raw edges. Piping Raw Edges Stitching Line Fabric Raw On the wrong side of the fabric sew a straight stitch close to the piping. Note: The Zipper Foot can be attached right or left, allowing for the piping to be inserted from either side. 6 Centered Zippers There are several ways of inserting zippers. The pattern envelope of the project or garment will designate the best type of zipper application, as well as the length and type of zipper to use. Most applications require a zipper foot. Straight Stitch 0, no width For basting: longest stitch For stitching: 3-4 Presser Foot: Zipper Foot Tension: For basting: loosen the tension For stitching: Auto Needle Position: Start with needle in left position The needle can be moved to the left or right. This will allow stitching closer to the zipper than when the needle is in the center position. Materials: (1) 7" zipper (2) 8" x 4" piece of medium weight fabric Transparent tape Fabric glue stick Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Procedure: Place fabric under the foot, matching the raw edges with the 5/8" seam guide. Starting at the top of the fabric, baste 7". Then change the stitch length to 3 and finish seaming the remaining length of the fabric. 7 Press the seam open. Finish raw edges if necessary. Apply glue stick lightly on the right side of the zipper. Place the zipper face-down, so that the zipper's coils or teeth are directly over the machine-basted seam. Pin in place, if necessary. Spread fabric flat, right side up and place 1/2" wide transparent or perforated marking tape on top of the centered seam line. The tape should be the length of the zipper (7" long for this exercise). Replace the Standard Presser Foot with the Zipper Foot. Adjust the foot to the left of the needle. On the right side of the fabric, stitch around the zipper. Pivot the fabric on the needle at the corners, using the edge of the tape as a guide. Turn fabric to right side and remove the tape and the basting. Press. 8 Satin Stitch Appliqué A close Zigzag Stitch is called a Satin Stitch. Satin Stitching is a great way to finish an appliqué on children's clothes and home decorating projects. Try a rayon thread for a smoother looking finish. Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Presser Foot: Needle Position: Zigzag Stitch 2-3 1-2 Satin Foot Center Materials: 2" x 3" cotton fabric for simple-shaped appliqué 2" x 3" fusible stabilizer 6" x 6" cotton foundation fabric 6" x 6" tear-away stabilizer Procedure: Press the fusible stabilizer onto the simple-shaped appliqué. Fuse the simple-shaped appliqué onto the cotton foundation fabric. (Fusing the appliqué into place will keep the appliqué from shifting while stitching.) Place a tear-away stabilizer underneath the fabric. (This is used to ensure quality stitching when using dense stitches.) Place the applique under the foot, so that half of the stitch will form on the applique and half on the base fabric. Sew around the applique. Widen the stitch width to 4 and change the stitch length to below 1. . *Depending on model the Satin Foot might be optional. Check the instruction manual. 9 Sewing around the applique again, covering the previous stitching. . Sewing over an applique twice is not always necessary, however, it does give a beautiful full-covered effect. 10 Lace Insertion Insert lace into a special occasion garment or a home decorating project to create a beautiful heirloom keepsake. Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Presser Foot: Needle Position: Zigzag stitch 2-3 1 Satin Foot Center Materials: 5" x 3" of batiste 6" strip of lace 60-80 weight fine cotton thread Procedure: Spray starch and iron the lace and batiste. Center the lace right side up, lengthwise on batiste. Stitch lace to fabric by sewing a zigzag stitch down both edges of the lace. Try to just clear the heading of the lace. *Depending on model the Satin Foot might be optional. Check the instruction manual. 11 Carefully cut under the lace down the center. Turn these raw edges back away from the lace, then finger press. Finish fabric's edges by sewing a small zigzag through all layers, being careful not to catch too much lace. Turn fabric over and trim excess fabric seam allowances away. Note: A nice touch can be added by stitching a row of decorative stitches down each side of the lace. 12 Couching a Strand of Pearls Couching is a term for sewing over trims, such as cord, ribbon or a strand of pearls. The stitch may or may not penetrate the cord it stitches over, depending on the desired effect. A Zigzag stitch or a wide decorative stitch are excellent choices for this technique. Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Presser Foot: Needle Position: Zigzag Adjust according to size of pearls 3 or 4 Standard Foot Center Materials: Monofilament thread String of pearls Felt or stabilized woven fabric Procedure: Lay pearls or other couching trim on top of fabric. Stitch, adjusting width to ensure the stitch slightly encases the trim as desired. 13 Button Sewing Use your sewing machine to sew on buttons, snaps or hooks with ease. This is especially helpful when making a large project where several buttons need to be attached, such as a shower curtain that has button tabs. Machine Set-Up: Stitch: Stitch Width: Stitch Length: Feed Dogs: Presser Foot: Needle Position: Zigzag Determined by button (width between the holes is usually 3mm) N/A Lowered (or Covered) Position Button Sewing Foot* Center Materials: Home décor fabric or shirting One 2-hole button Liquid fray preventer Procedure: Lower the Feed Dogs or Cover them with the Feed Dog Cover. (See your manual for more information.) Fold fabric in half and place under presser foot. Position the button on the fabric so that the holes in the button are between the toes of the foot. *Depending on model, the Button Sewing Foot might be optional. Check the instruction manual. 14 Lower the presser foot to hold the button in place. Turn the hand wheel forward, adjust so that the needle goes into the right or left hole. Adjust the stitch width dial to fine tune the swing of the needle into the opposite hole. Recheck the swing of the needle into the opposite hole and then use the foot control to sew 5-6 stitches. Before removing the button and fabric from the machine, set machine to straight stitch. Leave width at current setting and stitch in place for three stitches. This forms a tie-off on the back side to secure the button. Apply a liquid fray-preventer on the backside of fabric on the knots. Trim threads after they dry, being careful not to cut thread knots. Note: Remember to either raise the feed dogs or remove the feed dog cover when finished. Curtain with Button Tabs 15 Four-Step Buttonholes The built-in buttonhole is divided into four different steps. This simple process provides reliab ...