CLC-200 Operation Manual CONTENTS General Description Specifications Gimbal Unit Assembly and Installation Portable Unit Assembly and Installation Operation Menu Functions Using the Zoom modes Understanding the Colors Typical Indications Frequently Asked Questions Maintenance Troubleshooting Other Vexilar Products Optional Transducers Service and Support 2 3 4 10 14 16 19 20 21 24 25 26 27 30 32 Founded in 1960, Vexilar, Inc. has a long history of bringing revolutionary technology to the sport fishing industry. Some of the Vexilar firsts include: the first liquid crystal display, the first fish alarm, the first three color display, the first CRT and straight line paper graphs, and the first split-screen zoom flasher for the sport fisherman. 1 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The five-color CLC-200 is a compact and light-weight liquid crystal depth sounder. It indicates depth, shows changes in bottom content, and conditions. It can also discriminate between large underwater targets, such as fish, and smaller targets such as bait fish and plankton. The unit transmits bursts of high frequency pulses which are converted from electrical to mechanical energy by the transducer. These "sound" pulses radiate from the transducer downward and are reflected back up to the transducer where the energy is converted back to electrical signals. The CLC-200 then processes these signals and displays them. The graphic display is accomplished by activating individual or groups of multi-colored pixels, or dots, on the LCD. The first vertical column of pixels, on the right edge of the display, shows the most current information. This column is then moved to the next place, to the left, as soon as a new column is ready. This process is repeated continually to make up the graphic display. Thus what you see on the display is a brief history of what the boat just went over. The CLC200 also displays the depth as an easy to read digital number on the right side of the display. 2 SPECIFICATIONS 8 - 17 VDC (12 Volts Nominal) · Operating Voltage: 83 mA · Current Draw: 400 Watts (Peak to Peak) · Power Output: 200 kHz · Frequency: 12°(Gimbal) / 22° (Boundary Waters) · Beam Angle: · Resolution: 192 x 160 Pixels · Sounding Rate: 410/min. Max · Display Size: 2 3/4" x 2 1/4" · Display Colors Black, Red, Green, Yellow, White · Background Color Selectable White or Black · Temperature Range 30 - 100 Degrees F · Depth Ranges: 0-20', 0-30', 0-50', 0-75', 0-100', 0-125', 0-150', 0-200', 0-250', and 0-300'. CLC-200 Gimbal version (Left) CLC-200TM - Transom transducer CLC-200PK - Puck style transducer CLC-200BW Boundary Waters portable version (Right) 3 UNIT ASSEMBLY (Gimbal Version) You will need to find a place to mount the CLC-200 that will make it easy to view and reach. You must provide the unit with power and mount the transducer in an effective location. MOUNTING THE UNIT Attach the CLC-200 to the ProMountTM bracket system. First, remove the platform by lifting the tab and pulling it forward, as in figure 4. Use the supplied hardware with locking washers to securely attach your unit to the removable platform section. Be sure you mount the unit to the ProMountTM platform so that the "lift" tab is facing forward. You are now ready to locate the permanent base. First look for a flat area for mounting. If you are going to drill holes in your dash or deck to run cables, make sure you spend a little time to place the holes in the right spot before beginning. Allow for Figure 4 plenty of movement Pull for your electronics and cables. If you are drilling a large hole to accommodate the Lift cable connectors, you may want to position 4 your base directly over the hole using the hole cover spacer gasket. Be sure to run cables out the back side of the spacer gasket which has the pre-cut groove. (See figure 5 ) Now mark the center of each of the four holes with a fine point Figure 5 marker or center punch. Pre-drill the mounting holes using a 1/8" drill bit and use the supplied mounting screws. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS. When reattaching the ProMount platform (unit attached) to the mounted base, slide it back into position until you hear a loud"click". This confirms it is locked into place. IN-DASH MOUNTING The CLC-200 can be mounted in the dash of your boat using the optional In-Dash Mounting Kit (part# IDK001). This kit will contain the necessary hardware and instructions to complete the installation. CLC-200 In-Dash Kit #IDK001 CONNECTING POWER Plug the 2 pin connector into the back of the unit. Find the closest source of 12 volts and route the cord to it. Keep the cord away from sharp metal edges and avoid tight places where the cord may get crushed. Connect the white 5 wire to positive and the black wire to negative. If the cord provided is not long enough, more can be added. Use 18 gauge wire minimum. Install the included 1 amp in-line fuse, placed in the positive line, as close to the power source as possible, to protect against shorts in the wiring. ASSEMBLING THE TRANSOM STYLE TRANSDUCER Locate the transducer, and bracket hardware. This includes; 1 - Transducer 2 - Angle Brackets 4 - Bracket Screws 2 - Bracket Plates 4 - Nuts 4 - Mounting Screws Attach the bracket to the transducer as shown in Figure 7. The flanges of the bracket normally point outward, away from the transducer. If mounting space is tight, you can reverse the angle brackets and face the flanges inward. TRANSOM TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION When choosing an area to mount the transducer, keep in mind that you need clear water flow across the face of the transducer to insure a clear reading at all speeds. Try to stay away from rivets, ribs, or strakes that would be just in front of the transducer. They can disturb the water and scramble the reading. 6 With the mounting bracket attached to the transducer, hold it up to the boat where you are planning to mount it. Mark the holes on the transom, or mounting plate, so that when the bottom of the transducer is flush with the bottom of the boat the holes are located at the bottom of the bracket slots. This gives you room to "fine tune" the position of the transducer and optimize your reading after you've put the boat in the water. Ideally, the transducer should be just under the bottom of the boat. Figure 7 However, you may need to lower it 1/2" to 5/8" to get a clear reading at top speed. Drill out the holes and tighten the bracket to the hull securely. Be sure to seal any holes drilled into the transom with silicone to prevent water from leaking into the boat. Give the transducer a slight tilt downward so that the back is about 1/8" lower than the front. Tighten the bracket screws and nuts securely. Run the transducer cord up to the unit. Plug the transducer connector into the back of the unit and screw the retaining ring down snugly. 7 PUCK TRANSDUCER MOUNTING To attach a Puck style transducer to a trolling Figure 8 motor use the large cable tie provided. Notice the slots in the transducer for this purpose. Locate the transducer on the bottom of the lower unit (figure 8). Run the cable up the shaft using smaller cable ties to hold it in position. Make sure that the motions of the trolling motor will not damage the cable. Plug the transducer connector into the back of the unit and screw the retaining ring down tight. IN-HULL MOUNTING Puck transducers can also be mounted in-hull. This method gives high-speed reading without the worry of having a transducer hanging on the back of the boat to get damaged. Finding the best location for the transducer before installation is critical. Choose a flat smooth spot near the center of the bilge and near the back of the boat. Be sure to make a "test run" before you permanently install the transducer to make sure that you can get a good reading through your hull at all speeds. When the boat is in the water, put about a half inch of water in the bilge and hold the transducer in the intended location. Move the it around until you get the best reading. Mark the spot. To install the transducer, first clean the spot of mud and oil. Using an epoxy* or silicone glue, make a puddle, about 8 the same size as the transducer, on the inside of the hull. Place the transducer in the glue and press it down firmly, gently twisting it back and forth, making sure that there are no air bubbles in the glue between the transducer and the hull. It is important that you let the glue dry completely before turning the unit on. * If your hull is aluminum, use silicone. This material will flex with the hull at high speeds and in rough water. OPTIONAL TEMPERATURE SENSOR To install the optional temperature sensor (part# TP0002) use the supplied mounting screws to secure the probe to boat transom. Alternately, you can use a plastic cable tie or wire twist tie to secure it to existing hardware. The probe should be in the water, but not below the hull line. Route the cable up to the unit just as you ran the transducer cable. Remove the plastic protective cap from the temperature sensor jack on the back of the unit. Be sure to keep it for future use. Plug the 8 pin connector into the CLC-200. When you turn the unit on, the temperature reading will appear on the screen automatically. TP0002 9 UNIT ASSEMBLY (Portable Version) Remove the gimbal knobs from the unit and then remove the rubber washers from the knobs. Set the battery pack down on a table top and place the unit, face down, inside with the top of the unit opposite the battery pack handle. Place one gimbal knob on each side of the unit. Place the metal ends of the carry strap over each knob with the bend pointing outward, away from the threads. Put a flat rubber washer onto each of the threaded shafts to hold the strap ends in place. Install the knobs into the unit, through the battery pack. Tighten both slightly. INSTALLING THE BATTERIES Turn the unit over to access the battery compartment door (figure 11). Unscrew the two retaining screws and remove the compartment door. Install eight AA ALKALINE batteries (not Figure 11 included) by following the imprinted guides in the battery compartment. Replace the compartment door and tighten the screws back into place. Plug the power cord from the battery pack into the CLC-200 and tighten snugly. Note-- The battery compartment is not sealed. After use in a wet environment, remove the batteries and leave the compartment open. This allows it to dry and minimize any corrosion that may develop. 10 ASSEMBLING THE TRANSDUCER Locate the transducer and bracket assembly. This includes: 1 - Transducer 1 - Metal Bracket 1 - Suction Cup 1 - Short Panhead Screw 2 - Short Machine Screws 2 - Nuts 2 - Washers 1 - Safety rope The suction cup installs using the single short screw. Attach it to the hole in the flat bracket as shown in figure 12. Now locate the transducer and the remaining hardware. Install the transducer onto the bracket as shown. Install the two short screws through the transducer slots and into the bracket holes. Place the washers and then the nuts onto the screws and tighten securely. Finally, install the safety rope. Tie a knot in the rope and run it through the upper hole in the bracket until the knot stops at the hole. You will tie the other end to the boat. Figure 12 11 TRANSDUCER MOUNTING The suction cup bracket assembly is designed to be mounted on the side of a canoe or kayak. However, it can also be attached to the transom (back) of a normal fishing boat. Wet the suction cup and press the assembly onto the surface of the hull in the area where you are going the attach it. Slide the assembly up or down until the transducer is completely in the water. You may want to bend the bracket so that the transducer is not pointing off at an angle. Ideally, it should point straight down when your boat is normally loaded. Tie the end of the safety rope to the boat. Leave as little slack in the rope as you can. If the suction cup lets loose, the rope can save your transducer and depth sounder from being lost. If you'll be mounting to a flat transom and you wish to get clear readings while the boat is moving at faster speeds, you may want to purchase the optional Tri-Cup Figure 13 bracket (part# BK0061) shown in figure 13. IN-HULL MOUNTING This method, gluing the transducer to the hull, gets similar results as if you were mounting the transducer externally, only there is no transducer on the outside of the boat to get damaged by impact or tangled in weeds or fishing line. This method works well for most types of single layer 12 hull materials, including aluminum. However, the transducer is not easily removed after installation. Finding the best location for the transducer before installation is critical. Choose a flat smooth spot near the center of the hull and near the back of the boat. It is a good idea to make a "test run" before you permanently install the transducer to make sure that you can indeed get a reading through your hull at all speed ...